poita

Mavimao said:

Uh, I would have had it this morning if Windows wasn't a dork and automatically downloaded updates and restarted my computer in the middle of the night! Is this a common thing? I have a mac, but needed to bootcamp into windows for work and began downloading the film in the background. At least OS x has the common curtosy to not reboot unless you ask it to!!

Rant over- I can't wait to come back home and watch it!!

Yes it is a standard, really annoying feature of Windows, it has screwed up many an automated astrophotograpy session as well. It can be turned off via the control panel.

guiser said:

Harmy said:

guiser said:

guiser said:

Just watched the 2.0 again and I noticed something during the opening crawl.  It seems as though the stars disappear early and reappear late as the scroll passes over them.  Almost as if the text has some kind of opaque black border.

Is this correct?  I've never noticed it before in any other version but I'm not all that observant most of the time :)

Bump, anyone?

Sorry, must have missed that. I saw a high def scan of the original crawl and the black outline is very much there.

Thanks for checking.  Must be the years I spent watching old fuzzy VHS recordings.

I went back and noticed the stars disappearing early in Puggo Grande as well, but they seemed to actually get brighter if they were on the edge of a letter and as they appeared right at the bottom of each letter (strangely no spacing below).  Not sure what would cause such a thing to happen, but I'm done obsessing over titles now.

I can't wait to enjoy 2.1, thank you so much for all your hard work Harmy and to everyone else in the community that helped out with this amazing project!!!

I think is mainly due to the brightness of the text washing out the starfield that it is composited over, and the telecine gear (and reduction prints) not having the dynamic range to cope with it.

These would be a nice addition:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Star-Wars-Empire-Strikes-Back-Editing-see-12-back-poster-original-prop-/221200390421?pt=US_Action_Figures&hash=item3380921915

maybe it is solid gold??

The German one comes to about 45 pounds. I can always post you mine if you ever want to calibrate your LD player using the service manual.

Troyig88 said:

I am going to have to get someone to download it for me.  I tried once and failed.  I am not very computer smart.  I am learning. I can't wait for reviews to come in I know they are going to be good.

Download and install JDownloader, go to the first link on Harmy's 'google that for you' results.

Sign up for the paradoxical place.

hit select all on the links and copy them to the clipboard. JDownloader should automatically take over from there.

Set your Max Con and Max Dls to more than 5 (try 20 if you have a fast ISP) and away it all goes.

In approximately 1hr and 43 minutes I will be whipping a disk around to a mate's place who has a decent projector, and we will be sitting down to 2.1 with the kids.

Thanks so much Harmy!

No other Aussies?

I can scan it, maybe if someone is ever holidaying in Oz....

I wonder how much it would be via sea-freight?

Niiice...

How do the starfields look in your new version, any samples?

Oh and to answer your question Silverwook, I could easily scan the missing frames from a 35mm print to reinsert into any restoration project.

Yes, I saw that last week, very tempted by the 35mm print, even though it isn't scope. I'd love to know what the actual movie consisted of, there are so many rumours...

Shipping cost to Australia puts me out of contention though, they want a grand to ship it!

If anyone has the complete torrent on myspleen for 'The Star Wars DVD cover collection, could they reseed it? There are a ton of poor people on there who have been sitting on 85% for months, it makes me teary when I think about it. *sob*

Harmy said:

That's strange - I've used the exact same settings for the AVCHD as for v2.0 and it came out quite a bit smaller (by like 600MB). This on one hand means, that I'll be able to add a few extra audio or subtitle tracks but it's a bit worrying.

If this version is less noisy then I would expect a smaller file size, but double check all the settings...

If you wanted to preserve the Prequels, then get a group together and grab a 35mm print, they are around $1000 so it would be quite doable.

If I hadn't blown all my money on ANH sources, I'd be grabbing the PT for around $3000 and scanning it from a release print.

This is great, my kids will be all over this.

Torrents work well, but usenet is great as it stays up for years and can be downloaded at full speed without any need for people seeding etc.

Doing both is the best bet, there are plenty of people that can push it up to usenet for you if need be.

Guspaz said:

 

I'm not so sure about the colour correction in the speederbike shot. Overall, I like the change in colour in the shot, but there are a bunch of details that are changed/removed:

- The buildings (the triangular ones on either side of the frame) are badly rusting in the original, but the rust is turned into slight dirt smudges in the colour-corrected version

- All the red aircraft warning lights have been entirely removed

- The flames on the left-hand part of the frame appear unnaturally blue in the colour-corrected version

So, the problem with the shot is that the general change in colour cast is nice, but it damaged/removed a bunch of the detailed stuff that shouldn't have been colour corrected (or at least not as much). When you take all this as a whole, these sorts of changes can change the audience's impression when viewing the scene. Different implications about the context and state of the city.

 

None of that is really a problem, so keep at it.

Once you have an overall colour-look for the film you are happy with, we can go back and redo the colour changes with masking to restore colour nuance where it is required. Putting the warning lights, flames and rust back in to fit with the new colour scheme isn't hard, just time consuming. Getting your overall pallete right first is the right way to go about it, and achieving a consistent look and feel for the film, and keeping the correct colour-emotion for each shot relevant is the important thing so keep going! :)

CatBus said:

SpilkaBilka said:

CatBus said:

Space Kaijuu said:

Will the Blu-Ray version of 2.1 have the 1985 laserdisc remix?

We are trying to package this up for Harmy ATM.  I'm hopeful.

Awesome, glad to hear it.  How's that going?  Been away the last few days, haven't been keeping up with this or the 1985 thread.  Thanks so much for your efforts, and I'm sorry I have absolutely no skills to contribute to this!  :)

I have the needed tools, but no means to get the FLAC file from the newsgroups.  I've sent a PM to DM but no response yet.  If you can supply it, that'd be fine too.

I can help you out there, check your PMs.

Anyone know what the VHD releases were like?

This is the one I purchased, and I actually got it from these guys:

http://www.etus-landgraf.de/index.php/virtuemart/pioneer/ld-geraete/dvl-919/ld-test-disc-pal-detail

They actually stock LD parts as well:

http://www.etus-landgraf.de/index.php/virtuemart/pioneer/ld-geraete?oberkategorie=3&hilfskategorie=1549&unterkategorie=0

You have to get the PAL disc  from Germany, I'll dig out the link.

The wierdest thing is that if I put the PAL disc in, but set the DVD player to output NTSC and the ES10 to output NTSC, the comb filter does a far better job!?!

It is the same no matter if I use the front or rear input.

Panasonic EU has a firmware upgrade disc available if you email them they will send it out. It may help?

Here is the same PAL test pattern via composite video into a Crystalio II video processor, output from that via HDMI to the Blackmagic Intensity.

It will take about 2-3 weeks for the print to get to me in Australia, and then about a month to do a proper capture.

Because I capture in mono, I get 3 images per frame, a Red, Blue and Green image. These then have to be combined to make a single colour image.

I also do 3 captures and average them to remove CCD noise etc. and then an extra capture underexposed and another overexposed in case it is required. That all takes a while.

But yes, I will be selling the print when I have squeezed everything I can out of it.

Capturing using 16:9 anamorphic and resizing the width to 1024 to match your screenshots, mine looks like this:

Yours looks like this: