Would you post some screenshots of this one?
I'm actually a bit low on space right now so I'm gonna wait with grabbing it.
AntcuFaalb said:
A question first: Are most of the glue marks in GOUT ANH similar to the one at the bottom of NTSC GOUT ANH frame #12675?
That one's not a glue mark, it's a yellow flash. No idea what caused it. Check 66414 and you'll have a purple flash! Weird stuff.
For some "nice" glue marks check 14120, 14121, 14412, 23697, 24672, 25356, 26507, 26565, 26822, 27105.
@LexX: I don't think DJ rendered the sequels because he's short on drive space with 4 projects currently closing in on release, but the scripts have been ready a long time.
Then they will need the same treatment that SW got: Cleaning up bad frames and all. After SW is released I will go through ESB shot by shot and write down the frame numbers of stuff that needs fixing and then we'll choose which ones are the worst, since ESB has thousands of frames with glue marks and such things. And very important is also to fix the color errors like purple/yellow lasers.
@poita: Thank you. You're gonna love ESB and ROTJ, they look great too!
@poita: Don't worry, I'm not misinterpreting it. I know you just wanted to help. And I know that those scans aren't perfectly correct, it's been proved by Harmy before.
And yeah, for this project it's a one-for-all script, but it works great on all three films and we're sure you guys are gonna love all three of them the way they look now. We're going to include a before/after comparison gallery on each disc to let you guys see how much has changed.
^ Awesome :)
Harmy said:
Don't you just hate when people do that? I know I do :-D
Haha! Nah, in a way I appreciate that people care so much. But sometimes I wish I could just transfer my memory of all those countless hours spent on color correction over to them so they would just see what I've seen. :)
@poita: Actually that's pretty much how the scene should look. Like I said before I've been through these settings about 30 times or maybe even more, back when I did the color correction and in the end I've gotten very sure I got the best result I possibly could.
Even though it looks green at first glance, it's actually how it should look when all colors are brought back the way we did. Considering the downsides of the GOUT of course.
Just check the scan of that scene on jedi1: http://www.jedi1.net/images/1600/ANH-Galactic_Empire-02144-1600.jpg
Even Vader has a green tone there.
I appreciate that everybody is trying to help but it's way too late for that, and I'm very confident that the color correction got the best possible result so I'm not even considering going back to that point again. I hope everybody understands this.
Thanks AntcuFaalb. :)
And yeah, it started with one curve and ended up being 5 curve files, 2 histogram conversions and lots of other settings like "selective color". I revisited the settings about 30 times or more during that time.
We won't go into complete detail about it, especially since we're way past that point, everything is final and almost ready for release.
But I should've said that the saturated pic I posted was from the raw GOUT, nothing else. It was just to show how bad the colors are and why it's hard to get something out of it.
Here's that same scene before and after:
There will be case art for the 97 SE's too. I've actually started working on the one for the first film. It's gonna be pretty simple though, with the poster as front but nicely cleaned up.
@yoda-sama: I continued the discussion over pm, and in animemaakuo's case it was about a hue-shifted DVD which had green sky and pink skin tones. So I understand if that flesh tone option could make it look slightly better.
I completely understand your point. And "fixing" is exactly what I've been doing ever since I started the old thread about color correcting the GOUT. We did reach a very nice result in the end. And we're way past the repair/color correction state.
And my intent of posting that picture was just to show how bad the raw GOUT really is.
@animemaakuo: If you want, you could send me a pm and tell me what Samsung model you have and I might be able to find some useful tips and maybe even settings. Let's not keep discussing off-topic here. Sorry Harmy!
Molly said:
My voice sounds brain-damaged.
Your voice has a brain of its own?! :)
Nah, jokes aside I think nobody likes to hear their own voice. I sure don't. But if this project progresses nicely I might be up for some kind of interview if it's needed. I imagine when new people come to this site, a documentary would be a great introduction.
animemaakuo said:
I appreciate the help and all, but I don't think I want to follow that guide. For one, it's way too long and complicated. Secondly, I don't understand a lot of that stuff so it would be pointless for me to follow. And finally, I'd much prefer some professional do it and teach me instead.
Calibrating a TV shouldn't be that damn hard. It's rediculous to think that to achieve the DVD's intended picture I have to go through that 100 page guide. No thanks.
Yeah, I just wanted to mention the guide since some people (like me... haha) get interested when starting to read it. It mentions a lot of stuff other than the calibration process itself and explains it so I think it's one of the best there is.
But on the other hand I agree with you that it shouldn't be the way it is, that one needs to go through such a guide to get the intended picture. That's why some TV manufacturers have started to include more correct presets in their TVs. I know some of the mid- and high range Panasonic sets have Cinema/THX settings which often produce a result close to a calibration, even out of the box.
Unfortunately, as long as all that dynamic contrast bullshit sells, it will be prioritized over a correct picture.
poita said:
animemaakuo said:
What's the best way for me to calibrate my TV for movies, anime, and what not? I want to be able to put a disc in and watch it the way it was intended.
Get a reliable colorimeter and a test disc set like AVIA.
The colormunki is cheap and works great, for something more then the i1 Display Pro is a good choice.
Myself I got a used (but only a month old) i1 Display 2 when I did my calibrations. I think colormunki is more expensive, at least it was back then. So to everyone who wants to do a calibration I'd say see if you can find a used i1 Display 2, as long as it's not a few years old. (After some years colorimeters lose their accuracy)
AntcuFaalb said:
You_Too said:
Exactly. There are no big problems with the luma in the GOUT, it's the chroma.
Well, the luma was destroyed as well and the DVNR-1000 is to blame. :-(
Yeah, you're right. But at least there's no crushed shadow detail!
And Spaced Ranger: Great post! :)
@animemaakuo: There are references for greyscale and color which are used by the film studios to master the discs. If you really want to see everything exactly the way it was mastered, there's a good guide that I learned from: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
If you only want a basic setup of your TV, you can buy Digital video essentials and you'll be able to set brightness, contrast and color/saturation correctly.
Then there's always the usual advice: Set color temp to the warmest setting, turn off all dynamic contrast, edge enhancement, noise reduction, sharpness, wide color gamut etc.
Exactly. There are no big problems with the luma in the GOUT, it's the chroma.
Spaced Ranger said:
You_Too said:
Unfortunately there is no way to bring all colors back since the GOUT is sourced from a faded interpositive.
Technically, yes. But practically speaking, if you know for what you're aiming, mild fading shouldn't present much of a problem, as demonstrated in this more severe (?) fade before-and-after:
Well yeah, some fade can be corrected if working from a raw scan with all the color information intact. The GOUT has unfortunately been desaturated even after the scanning. In lots of scenes there are parts of the picture which actually has no color information left at all. Here's an example:
Here the saturation is set to 100 in photoshop. Check the left part of the back wall, or the ball-thing in the middle of the table. There simply is no chroma at all in those parts!
So while I was wrong saying the reason is that it's from a faded interpositive, (well that's partly true) I'm not wrong saying it's been treated very badly after the scanning.
EDIT:
Here's the same part from the 70mm scan, with same saturation setting in photoshop, so you can see how much more color and balance there is in the original:
Isn't it possible to download it as blu-ray and convert it to AVCHD? I'm not familiar with the authoring of those formats so that's why I'm asking.
The Fool Who Follows said:
Just putting this out there, I'm rebuilding the 1977 Zoetrope® 6 Channel audio, in effect its 5.1 surround. I'm using the 1977 Mono muxed to support all 6 channels and normalized to the 5.1 levels to build each track.
I saw the pre messed with version 57 times, I was a sonar tech and know my sound....
You mean you have the original 1977 surround audio? From the 70mm?
And what do you mean by using the 1977 mono? The 1977 mono mix has differences compared to the 6-channel I think?
This is very interesting and it would be nice to know more details if you'd share them, or create a thread about it!
We have 4 projects going on, SW Blu V2 & 97 SE, Conan and Night of the Living Dead 1990.
Thank you once again guys!
And it's nice to see DJ here again.
DominicCobb said:
Let us not forget what actually happened when Han did shoot first at Vader.
Yep, but that time his aim was a bit "off":
GlastoEls said:
Han v Vader in the finals, with Han to win by a nose.
There's my prediction!
- I've been waiting for you, Han Solo.
- Yes, I'll bet you have...
Would be a pretty short duel. :)
