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Moth3r

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Join date
26-Oct-2004
Last activity
16-Jul-2017
Posts
4,892

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Post
#151563
Topic
.: The XØ Project - Laserdisc on Steroids :. (SEE FIRST POST FOR UPDATES) (* unfinished project *)
Time
Surely Karyudo has the Japanese Special Collection? I was under the impression that he owned just about every laserdisc version ever made.

Some comments/questions from the first two newsletters:

The starfield enhancement algorithm looks like it produces very good results, but if I understand the process, it only works on static scenes. What happens when the camera pans down, or when the Star Destroyer passes overhead?

The timecoded version is a great idea, not just for your purposes but in general to identify how long each shot should be (I assume you're using the Definitive Collection discs as.. well, "definitive"?) and where frames are missing (I've noticed the PAL discs are missing several frames at the end of some scenes). Also it will be a valuable tool for assisting with audio sync. Do you have or will you be producing a document detailing total number of frames in the film and some frame numbers of critical events or scene changes for reference?

Regarding the frame cleanup, are you at the moment solely concentrating on laserdisc mastering defects and dirt/scratches/discolouration of the film prints? Or are you dealing with garbage mattes and fixing effects shots as well?
Post
#151541
Topic
Help: looking for... Original Trilogy preservation project w/ German audio?
Time
Originally posted by: Laserschwert
Audiowise I encountered a problem though... as a start I checked if the audio from my rip of the German THX-LDs does sync up with Mother's set, and it doesn't! So, where would I get a German audio track that does? I wouldn't mind editing them in Premiere to match up, but I am low on HD-space right now.
Of course it doesn't sync up, the actors are speaking English!!!

Seriously though, it should not be too hard (lip sync excepted ) to get the audio from your German LD rips compatible with the video from my DVDs. Firstly, did you capture a video stream as well, and is the audio locked to that video? If not, you need to re-rip the LDs. If you're low on HD space, capture the video at a lower resolution (e.g. 352x288) and compress using the MJPEG codec.

Then you need to have 2 instances of VirtualDubMod open, in the first, load up the M2V ripped from my DVD, the second, load up the AVI containing your LD capture (or an AVS script if you so prefer). Then it's just a case of comparing the two, ensuring your AVI's length matches up exactly with the MPEG-2 video stream. You may have to cut a frame or two from certain scenes, or repeat frames as necessary. As long as the edits are limited to only a few frames, the effect on the audio will not be noticeable.

Once you have the lengths matched exactly, just save out the audio from your AVI as a WAV. You can then encode to AC3, multiplex, etc...
Post
#149439
Topic
Original Trilogy.com in the Press
Time
I didn't get quoted, but then again, I didn't release any personal information...

The big question he posed is this: will the fans eventually agree on a definitive "preserved" version? I'm not talking about what I would call restoration, i.e. fixing effects, jump cuts, etc., but a version exactly as the original (well, with options to select original or 1981 opening crawl, and mono, Dolby or a remastered sound mix).

I optimistically believe that since the quality is constantly improving, there will eventually become a time when the law of diminishing returns applies, and we have a version that represents the best possible transfer from the material that is available.
Post
#148638
Topic
25fps (50i) - 23.98 fps conversion
Time
If your video is standard PAL-film, and assuming your capture drivers don't get the wrong field order, then your 50i capture will be 25 progressive frames per second.

Put simply, my recommended technique is thus:

- demux the audio, and slow it down to 960/1001 (~95.904%).
- write an AVISynth script that resizes the 576 vertical resolution down to 480, and changes the framerate to 23.976 fps.
- encode the script output with CCE as an NTSC DVD - this will make an MPEG-2 file with 2:3 pulldown flags inserted to give an effective framerate of 29.97.
- mux, author, etc. as usual.

There is an alternative method which involves keeping the framerate at 25fps, and then using DGPulldown to set flags to output 29.97fps. This means no adjustment to the audio is necessary. I would check out Doom9 for details.
Post
#148380
Topic
.: Moth3r's PAL DVD project :.
Time
I have the huffyuv-compressed raw captures on my hard drive, and most of the audio (apart from the 20th Century Fox fanfare that needs patching in).

I normally burn the rough crappy first-pass encode to DVDRW and scan through to check for audio de-sync, video glitches, etc. - but wouldn't you rather wait for a higher quality multi-pass encode for your classic edition?
Post
#148376
Topic
.: Citizen's NTSC DVD / PAL DVD / XviD project :. (Released)
Time
Originally posted by: Citizen
A friend of mine gave me these yesterday:

http://www.haku.co.uk/pics/StarWarsVHS.jpg
Another interesting point to note about this set; Empire and Jedi do not have the 20th Century Fox fanfare. Instead it has been replaced with the CBS Fox home video intro.

A little strange to watch, because everyone is used to the fanfare continuing to play into the "Lucasfilm" logo, however on these tapes the CBS/Fox music has finished by the time Lucasfilm appears.

(I expect that now, due to this unique feature, the more dedicated geek members of the forum will be clamouring for a straight transfer of this set... )

Oh yes, sorry about the off-topic post. What I meant to say is that I also noticed the black level inconsistency on the French laserdisc.
Post
#147795
Topic
.: Citizen's NTSC DVD / PAL DVD / XviD project :. (Released)
Time
Citizen, do you find you have to adjust your capture settings separately for each "side" of the laserdiscs?

I can't understand why, if the contrast (white level) is set up to give peak white without clipping on side 1 for example, side 2 is then about 5% too dark, then when you adjust again side 3 has overblown highlights due to clipping, and the level needs to be dropped even lower than side 1 was.

Or do you capture everything with a marginally reduced tonal range then expand during post-processing as necessary?