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Moth3r

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Join date
26-Oct-2004
Last activity
16-Jul-2017
Posts
4,892

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Post
#322818
Topic
Vdub and DVD Flickering
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/322818/action/topic#322818
Time

I agree, I personally would not apply any sharpening.

When you say the flickering occurs around straight lines, do you mean lines that are near horizontal? If so, then the flickering might be introduced by processing in your display.

The Digital Video Essentials DVD includes a test pattern for checking that the full progressive resolution can be displayed:

This pattern is frame based and is one of several patterns in the program with full progressive video resolution. It will likely challenge the capability of many processors to up convert it to a true progressive image. If you see flicker in the progressive output of a processor it is most likely not set up to handle this much vertical detail. There should be no flicker in the progressive output if the processor can deal with full resolution in the interlaced image.


I have tested this pattern on various setups, one LCD TV I tried cannot handle it and does produce flicker. Can you describe how your player/display are set up and connected?

The simple alternative is to use AviSynth's blur command in the vertical direction only. (Generally, studio-produced DVDs are filtered, and do not have the full progressive vertical resolution - because some customers would complain about flickering. This is why HD downconversions can sometimes look better than the official DVD. Superbit DVDs are the exception, because they are aimed at buyers with higher-end AV equipment.)

Post
#322559
Topic
Vdub and DVD Flickering
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/322559/action/topic#322559
Time

The downconverted clip looked fine to me.

The MPEG2 encode suffered from bitrate starvation (macroblocking) around the bottom of the door; I think there is just too much detail in the image (that's an impressive camera, BTW). Tried my own encode using CCE at 6Mbps and got similar resutls to HCEnc, 8Mbps was slightly better but not much.

It would help if you could point out the exact part of the image you see this "flickering".

Post
#321670
Topic
Difference in quality of laserdisc players
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/321670/action/topic#321670
Time

Everything I've seen indicates that the composite video output on the D925, whether though the RCA jack or the SCART connection, is the chroma and luma of the s-video output combined - that is, the signal always goes through the digital processing circuits, getting filtered in digital RGB and converted into luma and chroma along the way.

Some users have suggested a mod to pick up the "clean" composite signal before it enters the frame store, but no-one I know of has sucessfully implemented this yet.

Perhaps the difference you are seeing is due to your SCART cable being better shielded than your RCA cable?

(Although, I do remember Laserman talking about the V800, saying the BNC connection output a pure composite signal while the RCA is the combined s-video. So this kind of thing is not totally unheard of...)

Post
#321650
Topic
Info Wanted: Has anyone ever tried restoring the Episode IV deleted scenes?
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/321650/action/topic#321650
Time
Ziz said:

http://fanedit.org/138/

The Lost Scenes, ripped from the "Behind the Magic" CD-ROM, re-sized and cleaned-up somewhat.


See this thread: http://originaltrilogy.com/forum/topic.cfm/MoveAlongs-The-Lost-Scenes--Complete/topic/7553/

There was no clean-up involved in this disc - the video was a straight conversion of the original CD-ROM material.

boba feta said:

I attempted the first scene, but to be honest, my results were far from satisfactory so I abandoned the project. Comparison.


Is this restoration what JD was planning to use in Star Wars Begins?

Post
#321546
Topic
STAR WARS: EP IV 2004 <strong>REVISITED</strong> ADYWAN *<em>1080p HD VERSION NOW IN PRODUCTION</em>
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/321546/action/topic#321546
Time
Thanks to whoever first added the details of Ady's discs to fanedits.com.

I have updated the Xvid and PAL DVD5 with specs and screenshots, and currently working on updating the PAL DVD9. I used OBtwosy's cover as the main artwork for the DVD5, since the 'official' cover is specific to the DVD9.
(I'm quite pleased with how these entries look; I'm going to start applying this formatting to the entries for a few other projects.)

Anyway, I'd be grateful to anyone who wants to check and correct any errors, also if someone could update the NTSC entries (& the Purist Edition) as I don't have those.
Post
#321545
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/321545/action/topic#321545
Time
WXM said:

- Do not capture uncompressed! Use HuffYUV (or something newer that does the same trick?) It is a waste of hard drive space to do uncompressed when you have HuffYUV (and other lossless codecs). :)

Agreed. Something newer that does the same trick would be Lagarith (there are others as well, but I've only ever used these two).
- If you are worried about hard drive space you can in a pinch, as said, do two captures and average them, then delete the two sources (keep the average) then do another capture, average that with your previous average, etc. Just remember that with this approach you will need to modify your "weighting" values in your AVS Average script as you go along (.5/.5 on the merging of the first two captures; .66/.34 on the second merging; .75/.25, etc.)

Or, after keeping the 1/2 average, you could capture sources 3 and 4 then average them. After deleting 3 and 4 and keeping the average, you could then average your two files 1/2 and 3/4 with an equal weightng. Needs a little more room, though.
- At least with my set-up, the annoying situation happens of a duplicate frame being inserted by the capture card during longer captures, about one frame every four minutes (to keep sync I assume), the specific result being two frames that look 100% identical, which means one of them needs to be deleted. I search for and remove these duplicates by hand with VirtualDub, but maybe someone here knows an automated way to achieve this?

If you are getting dropped frames when capping LDs, then something is wrong with your setup. In my experience though, dropped frames are unavoidable when capping VHS.

I don't know of an automated way of removing dupe frames, but VirtualDub has a handy keyboard shortcut to jump to the next dropped frame in a file.
Post
#321534
Topic
Guide: Capture Digital Cable's original digital stream - no recompression
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/321534/action/topic#321534
Time

Thanks for posting this JT, looks very promising.

I don't know much about the subject, so I can't really add much info. I do recall a post from whoever it was in the UK who capped "Song of the South" off BBC, they used a Topfield (Freeview?) PVR, then copied the capped stream straight onto their PC.

Talking of the UK, I think we only use h.264 for HD stuff (e.g. the Howard the Duck source DJ used), everything else is MPEG-2.

I would like to learn more.

Post
#321523
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/321523/action/topic#321523
Time
Orinoco_Womble said:

I tried averaging VHS awhile ago, but just ended up with a slightly less noisy and slightly blurier image, so I was probably doing something wrong.

Interesting. Did you use a TBC? Uncorrected VHS sources contain a fair bit of jitter or wobble from one capture to the next. Multi-capture averaging on this kind of source probably would end up blurring edges. Fortunately, laserdisc sources are much more stable.
g-force said:

something like this:

Interleave(source1,source2,source3)
Clense(reduceflicker=false)
SelectEvery(3,1)

And for an average, I suppose you'd use something like this:

interleave(source1,source2,source3)
temporalsoften(1,255,255)
selectevery(3,1)

(or use the external plugin Average?)

Also, there may be some benefit to throwing a mocomped-denoised source into the mix as well.

Lots of options. I shall be following this thread with interest, not least because I may shortly be involved in a project to cap a rare (non-SW) Japanese LD for another member of these forums...
Post
#321164
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/321164/action/topic#321164
Time
Five captures was just a suggestion. It depends on how clean the signal is to begin with; you may get acceptable results taking the average of just two or three caps.

Doesn't really matter whether it's before or after IVTC, as long as the frames to be averaged are the same and no other filtering has taken place.

I don't know why are you capturing uncompressed, when a lossless codec would reduce the size of your capture file significantly (I'm guessing about a third of the size you quote).

"NTSC_M_J" sounds correct, and the Proc Amp dialogue is exactly the same as I have with my card. You need to tweak it, because all video sources are slightly different voltages. Make sure the brightness is high enough so that your blacks aren't crunched, and the contrast is low enough so that your whites aren't clipped. The waveform monitor in the colortools VDub plugin is excellent for checking this.

You can also boost the saturation as well if you wish; find a spot with pure red and ensure there is no clipping by using the colortools vectorscope. Leave the hue alone; I messed with it for my original laserdisc capture which unfortunately led to some of the colours getting washed out.

I also put the sharpness right to the top; this is what caused the halos you can see in my LD capture.

Post
#321147
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Link
https://originaltrilogy.com/post/id/321147/action/topic#321147
Time
Arnie.d said:

I don't want to do much filtering. Maybe just apply NNEDI but no noisefiltering, I want to keep this one entirely DVNR free :).

What's the intention for NNEDI? Is it for the upscaling, with something like spline16resize to downscale to anamorphic dimensions? I can see the benefit of using Edge Directed Interpolation when upscaling from SD to HD resolutions, but a single lanczosresize may produce equally good results if just going from lb 4:3 to anamorphic 16:9. But - try both methods and see what works best.

Agree with your premise of avoiding noise reduction, but have you considered multiple capture averaging at all? Potentially it would let you to keep the real detail (and film grain) present on the laserdiscs, but reduce the analogue video noise introduced in the player and cables.

I did test capture Side 1 and the image is much brighter and has less color than DJ's transfer. I don't really know what's causing this but it could have something to do with the fact that these are Japanese disc so calibrated at a different IRE.

Are there any options for video format in your capture settings? I'm sure my card has separate options for 'NTSC' and 'NTSC-J'. Also can you adjust brightness, contrast, hue and saturation at all?

I don't know how the 7135 compares to older PDI cards. I only know it is much better than my canopus device.

Well the specs for the chip itself mention both an adaptive 3D comb filter and an adaptive 4-line (2D) comb filter. I suppose it depends on the actual card how this is implemented. The PDI uses the older Philips chip (SAA7118) and a Conexant BT878A chip as well.