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Karyudo

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Join date
23-Oct-2004
Last activity
12-Jan-2025
Posts
805

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Post
#127512
Topic
Citizen's Aspect Ratio Calculator Tool for your browser
Time
@citizen:

This calculator's rockin'. I like the AviSynth code. Makes it almost impossible to screw up. If you're going to that level of detail already, would you consider adding the LanczosResize() line you'll need, as well? There's a new syntax for Lanczos that I haven't figured out yet. Even with the old one, I can never remember which numbers come in which order...

Blue skying a bit for a second:

Imagine a sort of "AviSynth for Dummies" automatic script-generating page, where a nearly-non-user of AviSynth could enter the dimensions of the source and desired output, click on a few checkboxes to pick stuff like sharpening or smoothing or saturation increases/decreases, and have a pretty much full-blown AviSynth script magically appear in a box at the bottom, ready for cutting and pasting.

I'm in no way suggesting you *should* or even *should want to* put together something like that. I'm just sayin' it would be cool, and it was inspired by your already-cool AR calculator makin' life simpler.
Post
#127510
Topic
<strong>The Cowclops Transfers (a.k.a. the PCM audio DVD's, Row47 set) Info and Feedback Thread</strong> (Released)
Time
Ways to make an (almost-)uncorruptible Usenet posting:

1. Post an ISO, not a bunch of folders. This will not only make sure all the files are in the right place (video in VIDEO_TS, info and covers and other art in DVD_ROM, for example), but will also preserve the name of the volume.

2. RAR it up good.

3. Make about 20% PAR2 files; post 10% immediately following the original post if you don't want to be posting fills for the rest of your natural life.

4. Make an SFV, an NFO, an NZB, and a sample. Make a representative sample file: a piece of menu, say, plus some action? Maybe some subtitled parts? There's nothing quite as frustrating as a sample that's too big (don't need more than 20 seconds) and that doesn't show anything you can make decisions on.

5. Post the NFO as text, or (if you must) as a downloadable NFO. Don't include these little crap files in the PAR2 stuff (which is why I put these things in two separate steps, above).

6. Post the PAR2, SFV, NFO, NZB and sample files first, then all the RARs, and then the first 10% of the PAR2 files.

7. When losers whine about missing some PAR2 files, maybe post a few more.

If these steps are followed, it's virtually impossible for a sane downloader with more than two brain cells to rub together to screw it up.
Post
#126755
Topic
Info Wanted: who no UK PAL LaserDisc Version for a DVD transfer?
Time
Originally posted by: Darth Editous
Is the source for X0 anamorphic


While there are a handful of "squeeze" LDs, I don't think SW was one (or three). So I don't see how the X0 source could be anamorphic.

if not, will it be interpolated up to anamorphic resolution?


Sounds like the jury's still out. If it were up to me, I'd upsample. But there are decent arguments as to why you wouldn't.
Post
#126631
Topic
Info Wanted: who no UK PAL LaserDisc Version for a DVD transfer?
Time
Nice graphic! If only it weren't so accurate...

There's no way an X0 can do PAL, so it'd be hard to give the 'X0' label to anything PAL, wouldn't it?

I suspect there will be less difference between the X0 Project and anything PAL than people imagine there will be, and the X0 Project should have the advantage when it comes to noise.

In the meantime, I'm downloading Moth3r's versions, just like any sane individual should be!
Post
#126611
Topic
My First High-Res cover.
Time
Geez, I wish I had the tools, ambition, and talent at 13 to crank out something like this. I think you're doing very well.

However, here are a few points that I think you may want to look at again:

1. Most of your cover is text and white space, with not all that many graphics. I think you would see an improvement in quality of the final image—without too large an increase in file size—if you used PNG rather than JPG. JPG is lossy, and doesn't do a good job of white next to black in sharply-delineated boundaries. PNG is compressed, but lossless. It does well on large areas of the same colour.

2. The SW logo on the spine isn't great. You typed it out in a SW-themed font, right? I'd spend a little time looking for a better version of the actual text. If nothing else, you could grab it from any of several other covers, and do some thresholding on it to make it B&W. This is a weak point on several covers, and one I tend to notice right away.

3. I'd reduce the line-to-line spacing on the phrases "Based on characters created by | George Lucas" on the bottom of the front cover and "The Complete | First Season" at the top of the back cover. Looks like by default, the font gives you too much.

4. I'd also increase the word-to-word spacing a bit in those same phrases. (These font problems aren't yours; a lot of the amateur fonts created are relatively lame in this department.)

5. The right edge of the blurb on the back is a little too tight to the spine, and the leading 'E' sorta hangs out there on the left. I'd work that in to more of a drop-cap, with the left edge of the large 'E' being the left edge of the rest of the text. That will help to pull everything away from the spine a bit.

6. I'm not sure I'd have put the vertical lines on either side of the spine—I would worry that when I put it in a case, one or the other of the lines would actually end up sorta wrapped around onto the front or the back—but that's your call. If you haven't already, run some test cases, and see what you think!

Let me finish up by saying I wouldn't take the time to give my honest feedback if I didn't think you'd done a good job at the outset. To read you're just 13 is pretty cool: you're doing something not everybody tries, regardless of age! I don't think I'm alone in seeing some strong potential here. Keep it up!

Edit: Oh, sure: go and fix some things before I can post and point them out! Good eye...
Post
#126314
Topic
Question about video editing - mixing the new with the old
Time
Originally posted by: yavin02
My question is, is there a way to combine the original LD/DVD transfers with the newly-released, official DVDs and make a custom set? If so, what software would be needed?


Go to Doom9.org (http://www.doom9.org). Read like crazy. Ask questions in the Doom9 forums (http://forum.doom9.org/). See you in a few months.

Seriously, there are a zillion ways to do what you want. The experts at it hang out at Doom9.
Post
#125328
Topic
<strong>The Cowclops Transfers (a.k.a. the PCM audio DVD's, Row47 set) Info and Feedback Thread</strong> (Released)
Time
Originally posted by: Cowclops

As long as the video source is LD, black should NOT be 0 IRE, it should be 7 IRE.


Should read:

"As long as the video source is North American spec NTSC LD, black should NOT be 0 IRE, it should be 7 IRE."

Japanese spec NTSC is 0 IRE. Looks like PAL is, too.

Post
#125302
Topic
<strong>The Cowclops Transfers (a.k.a. the PCM audio DVD's, Row47 set) Info and Feedback Thread</strong> (Released)
Time
Originally posted by: Doctor M
Sure some whites are washed out, but on the whole it seems closer to the white/black levels as, oh say, the X0 Project.


What does this sentence mean? Do you mean...

"Sure some whites are washed out, but on the whole it seems closer to the [original] white/black levels [than], oh say, the X0 Project."

or...

"Sure some whites are washed out, but on the whole it seems [as close] to the [original] white/black levels as, oh say, the X0 Project."??

Because your 'closer... than' or 'as close... as' parts don't agree, I can't figure out if you think this is better than or not as good as what we've seen from the X0 Project so far.

Post
#125083
Topic
Help Wanted: for a Blade Runner &amp; THX-1138 preservation
Time
The relatively cheap and cheerful way to do it is to get the Womble MPEG-2 editor. That should let you cut what you want with a minimum of recompression. You'll still have to re-author (I believe), but that's not such a huge chore. Try DVDlab for that.

I'd recommend trying some of this yourself first, before agreeing to send it off elsewhere. My impression of OT.com is that there are a lot of people who will gladly take your stuff, and maybe not necessarily do as nice a job on the editing as you yourself could if you'd only give it a shot. Or, some others (like me) would gladly take your stuff with the best of intentions, but because they've got about 50 projects on the go already, it'll be early 2010 before you see any results back.

It never hurts to learn how to do stuff yourself. If you get good results, awesome; there's one more person around here who can contribute good results. If you're disappointed with the results, too bad; you've still got the recourse of being able to send your stuff to someone else -- but you'll more fully understand the issues, and why it's taking a while, and how tough it might be to get excellent results!

My 2¢, anyway.
Post
#125024
Topic
Info: The 'complete' OT feedback thread. Put all the star wars glitches &amp; fixes in here.
Time
I, too, like the classification system. I think maybe we should encourage Laserman to continue to update his first post, to add stuff like this new numbering system and maybe maintain a list of problems. In order of appearance in the movies would be great, but let's be realistic...

BTW, I've fixed those PAL film burns in my as-yet-uncompleted transfer.
Post
#124767
Topic
<strong>The Cowclops Transfers (a.k.a. the PCM audio DVD's, Row47 set) Info and Feedback Thread</strong> (Released)
Time
Rikter started this thread, so the best way to get the updated summary info in the right place is to have him edit his first post. The stuff oojason has put here can be copied to the first post of the thread, so that all the current info is there. That works wonders at places like doom9. Much less intimidating for people new to a huge thread.

Hell, it's even better for the oldtimers in a thread, too: if I were a noob, I wouldn't bother reading more than about 5 pages; I'd just post my question, get yelled at, and have someone either answer it or point me directly where to go.
Post
#124765
Topic
My 1997' SE laserdisc transfer set - including extras.... (Released)
Time
@ dark_jedi:

Hey, I don't mean to pee on your campfire. All the reasons you gave for doing your transfer are valid. I might even download the whole thing myself, just for the menus, etc., which look very nice. But for me, I think I'll prefer to stick to DVB caps for the SE -- which is a sort of bastard child, anyway.

Thanks for your effort to get this done, regardless!
Post
#124746
Topic
My 1997' SE laserdisc transfer set - including extras.... (Released)
Time
Menus are very nice. Cover is nice. Letter is vaguely irrelevant (but nicely presented). The transfer itself is mediocre, and obsolete. You're going to hate me for asking, but why preserve the LD -- sans AC3 5.1, it looks like -- when the much better GKar and TB releases exist already? It's sort of like lovingly converting something from 8 track when the exact same thing is already available on CD. For free.