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Arnie.d

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Join date
17-May-2005
Last activity
19-Apr-2015
Posts
1,595

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Post
#322462
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time

I didn't test the median filter. I thought the temperalsoften was better?

Not only does the telecine settings change sometimes from scene to scene, the black bars on the side and top and bottom change also from time to time which means I have to use multiple cropping settings for different scenes. Bummer.

 

Anyway, I made a testclip. It's just a raw capture upscaled to anamorphic, no other filters were applied (also no averaging). It was captured using the default capture settings:

Movealong

And another one:

Leia

And the flyover, average of 3 captures:

Flyover

 

I welcome suggestions about the contrast, color, saturation, brightness etc. (or any other suggestions or ideas).

 

Post
#322272
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time

OK, I received my new voltage convertor and did an average test of 3. I must say it does help to reduce the chroma noise. But since I capture in RGB the ,25,2 addition to the temperalsoften doesn't work and I don't want to convert to yuy2 or something like that, I want to keep it RGB.

Or I could just abandon the RGB stuff and capture in yuy2.

 

About the capture card settings, wouldn't it be best to just set them to the defaults and manually adjust brightness and saturation later using avisynth?

Post
#321809
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time
g-force said:

Arnie.d said:

g-force said:

Arnie.d said:

I'll give that one a try as soon as I get my new voltage convertor.

 

You know, I just thought of something. That voltage converter may be adding some noise to your captures due to the fact that the computer ground and the LD player ground are no longer the same. You may get better results if you can run your PC off of the voltage converter also. This may be possible if you flip the switch near the power input of your PC to 115 instead of 230. Just a thought.

-G

 I can't switch my PC to 115. But the LD player doesn't have ground (if I think I know what you mean by ground).

 Bummer. Yeah, it still has a ground, just not a chassis ground. Second best is to make sure the PC and the voltage converter are connected to the same outlet.

-G

 But do you really think it will make a difference for the image quality and why? I'm not convinced.

Post
#321804
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time
g-force said:

Arnie.d said:

I'll give that one a try as soon as I get my new voltage convertor.

 

You know, I just thought of something. That voltage converter may be adding some noise to your captures due to the fact that the computer ground and the LD player ground are no longer the same. You may get better results if you can run your PC off of the voltage converter also. This may be possible if you flip the switch near the power input of your PC to 115 instead of 230. Just a thought.

-G

 I can't switch my PC to 115. But the LD player doesn't have ground (if I think I know what you mean by ground).

Post
#321257
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time
ThrowgnCpr said:

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p203/ThrowgnCpr/SW_V8_small.png

Wow, that does look cool!

g-force said:

Wow! I'm really excited about this Arnie.d!

As for the averaging of the captures, it would be even better to do a median filter on 3 captures.

so given a row of pixels from three different captures:

(n1),(x2),(x3)

(x1),(n2),(x3)

(x1),(x2),(n3)

where x is a good pixel, and n is a noisy pixel, averaging would give you:

2/3*x1 + 1/3*n1 , 2/3*x2 + 1/3*n2 , 2/3*x3 + 1/3*n3

whereas a median filter would give:

(x1),(x2),(x3)

Even better to use 3 captures from 3 different laserdiscs to remove laser rot, but that I suspect is out of reach. I would love to help with the Avisynth scripting if you would like.

Do you plan on de-interlacing also?

-G

I still have a script somewhere for averaging 3 or 5 sources. But I'm not at home so I can't check what it does exactly. Some help would be nice. I've never actually used an averaging script/filter.

I will IVTC so it will be 23.976 progressive.
Post
#321157
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time
Max_Rebo said:

It's nice to see people are still interested in laserdisc transfers, I am especially interested in seeing a good transfer of these pre THX discs.

I have to second Moth3r's suggestion of averaging out multiple captures, it is the only way to reduce analogue noise without adversely affecting the image you are trying to preserve, keep in mind that this is one of the factors that makes the X0 player so good, except in that case it is done internally averaging the result from 5 separate NTSC decoders, I would suggest doing 5 captures of each side of the disc (preferably using a lossless codec) and averaging out the results before any other filtering/resizing. Obviously this will take a lot of time and hard drive space but it should be worth it.

If you do a test for the averaging be sure to boost the saturation as this should really highlight the noise as shown by the X0 guys here

also does the V800 allow you to get a composite output before separation to s-video?


Capturing 5 times?!?! I'll have to think about that one. But it will be lossless, I capture uncompressed which makes one 120 min. movie about 250GB.

The V800 only has composite out, no s-video out.


I can average 5 captures BEFORE IVTC, right?
Post
#321150
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time
I did a test upscaling with lanczos4resize only and nnedi+lanczos4resize. With nnedi there are slightly less jaggies on a full hd-tv. But there are less jaggies compared to the GOUT anyway.

I haven't considered averaging yet. But I can do a test, see if it helps at all.

There's a long list of video format settings but I use the NTSC_M_J setting (I thought it would be better than the NTSC_M setting). These are the other optional settings but for now I just used the default settings:

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/909/clipboard01pl8.jpg
Post
#321136
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time
@Moth3r
But .:The V8 Project:. sounds a bit too much like the other project. :)

@skyjedi2005
That's what it's meant to be.
I also have his v1 (but I think it's called Dark/Sega).

@AuggieBenDoggie
Yeah, lot of work. I already noticed the IVTC is going to be real time consuming. I'm going to IVTC manually and the settings change at almost every scene in the first 15 minutes...

@Orinoco_Womble
I'm only going to do the JSC. I don't want to do much filtering. Maybe just apply NNEDI but no noisefiltering, I want to keep this one entirely DVNR free :). I did test capture Side 1 and the image is much brighter and has less color than DJ's transfer. I don't really know what's causing this but it could have something to do with the fact that these are Japanese disc so calibrated at a different IRE. DJ used an American player, I use a Japanese player. Also DJ used a canopus 110? I have a canopus with the same chipset and in test captures I noticed it darkens the image and causes a colorshift sometimes. And I don't know what luminance level DJ set his mpeg2 encoder to when he encoded the video. But I'm pretty sure the colors on DJ's set are not as they are on the laserdisc. But I like his colors and I'm not sure I can do any better myself. In the end it's just a matter of taste I guess.

I don't know how the 7135 compares to older PDI cards. I only know it is much better than my canopus device. I test captured a dvd and compared the capture to the ripped vob and I have to say I was pretty good. There was some dotcrawl introduced but the colors, sharpness and detail were captured pretty good.

I'm not going to fit the capture card with a BNC connector. I fitted the player with a BNC to RCA adapter.


Little bummer btw, I melted my voltage convertor. I guess it's not the most clever thing to do to use a voltage convertor of 100W max when the player is also 100W. I ordered a new one, 1600W. That ought to do it!
Post
#321060
Topic
STAR WARS V8 - A Final Attempt (Released)
Time

http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/5389/starwarsv8bo3.th.jpg

I didn’t really like the GOUT for only one reason, the DVNR smearing. And since I watched the GOUT on a Full HD-TV I’m sure it is unwatchable.

So I teamed up with fffffff and bought:

  • The Pioneer LD-V800
  • The Japanese 1986 Special Collection LaserDiscs
  • A capture card (Philips 7135 chipset)

The only thing left to do is capture the LDs, IVTC, resize to anamorphic, encode to mpeg2 and author the DVDs. Sounds easy enough but will probably take some time.

So for the moment I won’t be in the off topic section talking crap about religion or politics, I will be in the “Star Wars Fan Edits and Preservation Efforts” section for the reason I came to this site.

Post
#319677
Topic
The Atheism thread
Time
Religion is just a mental illness.

In Holland we now have this discussion if it's allowed to check eggs for a breast cancer gene and put eggs without it back. Now these so called pro life motherfuckers object ofcourse. I know this girl who saw her two sisters die before they were 30 years because of inherital breast cancer leaving 2 husbands and 4 kids behind. She had her breast and uterus removed before she could develop cancer because she also had the gene and didn't want to leave her kids and husband behind. Now there is a possibility to prevent all this shit and what happens, these you know who want to prevent legislation for allowing this procedure.

Post
#318316
Topic
Date of Manufacturing or burning?
Time
You can use DVDInfoPro to check if the disc is a burned one. Just load the disc and press the button "media" (second from the left). The program will recognize nearly all cd/dvd media and give the name of the producer and lead-in and lead-out information, etc, but no date I think. If it's not recognized it's probably a pressed original.

Btw, how can you not tell by looking at the disc if it's a burned copy?
Post
#317905
Topic
GOUT image stabilization - Released
Time
boba feta said:

Allrighty then - thanks for your help moth3r, g-force, arnie & OSJ (That's what I love about this forum, it truly is a community), apparently I was running an old version, it reported back v 2.50. After upgdating that (to 2.58), stepping up to CCE 2.70 and installing a missing ffttw3 DLL (into the system32 folder mind) i'm just 4 days away from fanboy heaven. I initially ran a CBR version with only took 22 or so hours, but now I'm on a 3 pass VBR which will take a lot longer. I must say g-force you've done an absolutely stunning job with this script, I find it hard to believe this is indeed the GOUT I'm watching here.

If you have enough hdd space you can open the script with virtualdub and create an uncompressed avi. If you feed this avi to CCE encoding will go much faster.

When you use a 3 pass encode the script has to be run 4 times. If you make an avi first you only run the script once, which saves a lot of time.
Post
#317685
Topic
Blank DVD's: + or - ?
Time
What also can make a difference if your dvd player will play a burned disc is what software was used to burn it. When I started burning discs my pioneer player would play discs burned with nero (but this was an early version). But it would play discs of the same spindle burned with dvdit. Now I only burn with imgburn and I have never had compatibility problems.