If someone wants to post images of the missing frames using the GOUT as a source, I’ll see if I have those frames on film anywhere. Probably don’t, but I will check.
That’s exactly it. Also happens with a lot of lights on the Death Star.
I can’t say if it is in their print or not, but I just had a look at one of mine, and I adjusted it (very sloppily, not worrying about colour and blowing out the whites to try and force any bleed to show) to be at a similar contrast level, and the print I have here doesn’t appear to have the smearing.
I’m noticing that lights and reflections are “streaked,” like it was a slow exposure and their luminescence is trailing off a little. It’s especially noticeable when Artoo and Threepio are in the sandcrawler. Is this the result of overexposure in the scan or is it native to the print or negative?
EDIT: Here’s an example of what I’m talking about.
Do you mean this:
with the smearing coming of Threepio and the lights
and this with the Jawas?
It might be something that happened in the compression phase perhaps?
Congratulations on getting it done guys, it really is a ton of work to do it right.
I’m just about to watch it now!
So there’s no way to subscribe then?
Us old folks are getting priority, but they were taking newcomers not too long ago.
I’ve just seen the preview and it’s awesome, even though I find the whites and black too strong.
I already knew the whites were going to be “blown”, since it’s like that on the print. I don’t know about the blacks; my CRT monitor isn’t calibrated, so I just adjusted the brightness/contrast settings until the gray letterbox borders were the same color as the background.
I haven’t seen the preview, but which scenes have blown whites?
There are tons of Star Wars prints out there, most are faded Eastman prints, but there are also IB Tech prints a-plenty.
A good place to start is the 35mm forum, http://www.35mmforum.com/ , I would also head down to The Museo del Cine, at Agustin R. Caffarena 51 in La Boca, and talk to the staff there, they are bound to know some collectors and the local scene.
We only have the full 1933 King Kong because of a 35mm print found in Argentina, so you never know what you may find.
In other news, doctors hav finally worked out what is happening with my daughter, it is a rare bacteria that has made its way into her lungs. The good news is that it is treatable with some very specific anitbiotics, and we started the treatment this morning, she should be recovered within a week. After weeks of her getting worse, and no solution in sight, this is a huge relief.
I’m back at the surgeon on Friday to try and sort out why I am still in constant pain, (it should have settled down by now), so hopefully I will have similar luck and we can all go home and start getting back to normal! Thanks for all the kind thoughts.
A quick preview, many thanks to the person scanning for me.
If it is only a few scenes that require Japanese translation, I can do it.
Thanks everyone, the change in hospitals has been delayed by a day, pending some test results, so we are hoping that they may shed some light.
I think it may have been taken down due to legal concerns from some of the people involved, so be careful reviving something the orginal owners may have wanted to have kept out of the general view for their own reasons. Also be careful putting the owner of a website’s name/handle into the general public, when they went to the trouble and cost of registering their website privately.
Might not be an issue, but they also may have wanted it, (and the owner) to stay off the radar for some reason.
I’m going to disappear for the next week or so, my little girl has been in hospital for a few days, and they can’t work out what is wrong, and she is getting worse, so we are being transferred to Sydney (4 hours or so away), so I’ll be offline in analogue world for a while.
Ok. Good to know. But how does this colour chart work? I want to learn, that’s all.
Not to get into it here, but read this and it will give you an idea:
http://www.newsshooter.com/2015/10/30/the-colour-chart-re-invented-xrites-new-colorchecker-video-is-designed-for-better-exposure-and-balance/
Personally I find that Samsung’s HDDs are good, but I only have one 500GB drive and two 1TB drives from them, so… it’s hard to say.
It is tricky, individual experience doesn’t count for a lot as they are so mass produced.
I have owned 9 Samsung spinning hard drives over the past 4 years, and my old workplace had 19 of them. Every single one of them has died. The Samsung SSDs I have been using over the past few years haven’t missed a beat, but I’m sure someone out there has had a catastrophic experience with any of the storage manufacturers we could care to name.
Unfortunately recent testing ahs shown that SSDs left on the shelf experience data corruption after a while, so they need powering up and refreshing, which is a pain.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/9248/the-truth-about-ssd-data-retention
http://www.extremetech.com/computing/205382-ssds-can-lose-data-in-as-little-as-7-days-without-power
I guess SSDs will be cheaper and bigger in capacity in a few years, I won’t be surprise if by 2015 we start seeing 2.5’’ 4TB SSD drives for $200 or less!
With only 9 weeks of 2015 left, and the current 2TB SSDs clocking in at USD750 at the cheaper end, I can’t see 4TB of SSD for $200 happening in the next two months 😃
Would be nice though.
Once I get the scans done, they are transferred to RAID5, and once I have enough drives, onto an external RAID5 that is stored offsite.
This gets time consuming and expensive.
In all honesty, if I could afford it, I’d do a film-out back to 35mm, it is likely to outlast digital copies, especially with the new breed of archival film. In a hundred years, you can still utilise a well stored 35mm print, whereas it is getting difficult to access digital data from just 20 years ago.
Digital archives require constant maintenance and checking for corruption, and transferring to new media every few years, a good film archive just has to be kept cool and relatively dry.
At the moment LTO is a reasonable option.
Weird, it works for me.
Just search ebay for item # 331689116185
What you need is a Schneider Componon-S 50mm f2.8 enlarger lens
This is the lens you require, you will also need a c-mount adapter and a selection of extension tubes/rings
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/Schneider-Componon-S-50mm-f2-8-enlarging-lens-excellent-condition-/231697621349
The projectors will no longer work as projectors after the modification, they will only be good for scanning.
All HDD manufacturers have a percentage of drives that fail. People tend to go off a brand that they had a catastrophic failure (or 2) with, but the reality is, it can happen with any of them.
I’ll write up a full guide once I have recovered, but basically you need to be able to remove the shutter from the projector completely.
16mm projectors I have successfully modified include Bauer and Sankyo models. Super8, the ST1200HD, and the Bauer Super projectors. 35mm Simplex, I haven’t had a 9.5mm to mod.
After removing the shutter, you need to be able to attach a small (2-3mm) magnet to either the drive-shaft, or the frame advance knob of the projector, so that each rotation equals one frame advanced in the projector. This acts to trigger the camera to take an image, and the light-source to flash.
The software included with the LED controller takes care of operating the triggers, and capturing the image, as well as setting the exposure, white balance etc.
The camera/sensor is USB3, so it plugs into the computer, the LED board is USB2, and plugs into th computer as well.
The trigger mechanism consists of the magnet, and the hall effect sensor, mounted on a piece of veroboard or similar.
The hall effect sensor plugs into the LED board, and the camera has a trigger input, which also plugs into the LED board.
The RGB LED light source is approximately the size of a 16mm projector halogen light, you remove the projector light-bulb and replace it with the LED light.
The camera is mounted either on a macro-focusing rail, or a micrometer adjustable stage. The lens is attached (reversed) to the front of the camera, via and pointed at the film gate of the projector.
It then becomes a matter of focusing the camera by adjusting the focus-rail/stage, so that the film image fills the camera sensor as best as possible, you can see the picture on your PC and frame and focus accordingly.
You then set the exposure and RGB mix accordingly to get the best result, set your file format etc. and start the capture.
Yes, you will need a different projector for each format, as the film is a different physical size.
Updating to 4K is as easy as swapping out the 2K sensor for a 4K one.
The other part I forgot is the lens, it will be around USD200-500 depending on your luck in finding one.
I’ve had a bunch of WD RED drives fail, the Seagate 4TB drives have all been good, and some are now more than 3 years old. The 5TB HDDs have been atrocious for me, but it may be that they are fine as long as they aren’t moved around. It could be shipping them that causes the problem.
Either way, the seagate 4TB HDDs are what I have settled on going forwards.
If anyone sees them for under USD100, let me know.
What is your budget?
You can build a 2K scanner for about USD$1500-$2000 plus the cost of a projector to use for parts, and a Windows based computer with USB3 and an SSD RAID or one of the new fast PCIe SSDs (need at least 700MB/s write speed). If you want to go 4K, then the sensor cost starts getting very high ($3000+)
If that is within the budget, I can lay out how to go about it, but basically you need an LED control board with trigger function and camera control (from memory around $500-$700 or so), A PGR sensor ($500-$750), a hall effect sensor and magnet and some associated components ($25), and a suitable projector, some mounting hardware and a focusing rail/micrometer adjustable stage ($80-$400)
Taking photos of a projected image does nothing to show you the colours, whether a Nikon or Canon DSLR, the camera settings completely change the colour balance, which is why when we do photo shoots we always have a color-chart in shot.
20TB? What specifications are you scanning them at?
It depends, and I’m not sure exactly what you are asking, but typically Full aperture 4K, 16bit log or 32bit linear depending on the scanner, and when possible with an IR pass for the damage matte, that is stored in the Alpha Channel.
So, somewhere around 4300 x 3200 resolution, in ACES colour space, saved in .DPX format or .EXR
Some are done in other colourspaces, particularly when I haven’t been the person running the scanner.
