If you think 1 hour is too long to recompress 42 minutes, my advice would be to return the card and forget about encoding things.
But you can try changing to the fastest speed preset in x264vfw. This will mean lower quality at a given filesize, so you should also make a larger encode.
HDCP can't be the problem if you are just trying to record your Windows desktop at the moment.
Have you set the graphics card to output 720p or 1080i to the capture card? I'm also not sure what you mean when you say the capture card is connected to the TV. The HD70A has no outputs.
Well, highest quality for Netflix depends on having a hardware player that can show their 1080p streams, preferably output at 1080p24.
You don't need an HDCP stripper with those cards. But I believe the HD70A has the same black borders issue as the HD72A. The Mine HD887 may or may not.
TDecimate can try to remove the dupes, but if your goal is more of a perfectionist/manual effort, I've sent a PM.
jephyork said:
So I guess at this point my question boils down to: how do I inverse-telecine a video with broken cadences?
Sorry for the delayed response.
Easy on PC if there are only a few breaks as you say, but I have no idea for Mac.
Now, I'm pretty sure that the only "variable rate" in this clip is the end credits, which are natively at 29.97, and wouldn't have IVTC'ed the same way as the episode itself. And I'm going to ditch the credits anyway [...]
Can't you tell Handbrake to only process the main portion of the video, chopping off the credits as preprocessing?
Shows like this, like ST:TNG, were edited on tape using the interlaced frame rate. So it's not just that it was telecined for airing; the complete episode never existed in 23.976 fps form.
I'm not sure if I understand what you mean about fades, but dissolves between two shots are one of the problems with this type of content. Because they took footage that was already telecined and edited it together, you end up with dissolves between shots with two different pulldown cadences. The result is that no combination of fields lines up to produce a full frame, requiring actual deinterlacing for those frames.
You can force the square peg into the round hole, but not perfectly, and not even well using the solutions available on Mac. Avisynth is needed for such wizardry.
Modern graphics cards recognize and reverse pulldown during playback as part of their deinterlacing engine, the same way TVs do.
You can't change a variable frame rate video to constant frame rate just by telling it to play at a certain speed, because then the frames that are supposed to be shown for a short period of time are onscreen longer: you lose audio sync.
Why not just do your edit in 29.97 interlaced? If this is really a preservation, you should preserve the original format of the episode complete with original credits IMO.
If you downloaded the original 4:2:2 version, that is why it won't play on your Smart TV.
If you PM me an existing link, I can seed it.
For the same reason that the PAL width was scaled. When I suggested VDubMod images, I meant for both PAL and NTSC.
traal said:
- All were taken using VLC's built-in snapshot functionality for the best quality, with no deinterlacing, aspect correction, or any other video effects or postprocessing (except see #2, below). If you know of a better way, let me know.
VLC scales to the Display Aspect Ratio, although in this case it appears the PAL discs are incorrectly flagged as 16:9.
An easy way to grab unscaled PNGs is opening each VOB in VirtualDubMod and hitting CTRL+1.
I haven't downloaded it.
Asaki said:
Here's a PAL LD capture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vr8ln8B-8g
The description says it's a UK DVD. Specifically this OOP one from 2003: http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Brave-Little-Toaster-DVD/dp/B00009W35H
Quality looks good judging by screenshots of an XviD on RuTracker (R2 video and audio + other sources for the dub tracks).
Yeah, some sort of problem with frame height not being properly recognized. The gibberish near the bottom is the vertical blanking interval, which should be at the top of the video frame and outside the captured area, not visible.
The SNES issue is probably unrelated and due to incompatibility with its non-standard 288p signal. The N64 should have that same problem with most games but perhaps you played one of the few SD games.
You shouldn't even need the splitter if you get one of the Chinese cards that doesn't care about HDCP: http://www.ebay.com/itm/761H-PCI-E-HDMI-HDCP-Decode-Video-Capture-Card-Grabber-New-Arrival-/161464801057
Only stereo audio though.
Here is the service manual for the AG-1980. Perhaps you can tell me whether it maintains a separate path. Trying to read the schematic is over my head.
poita said:
VHS is not a component format, so even players with component outputs will not output the standard VHS tape via component. If any did, it would be the same as using a composite to component converter anyway.
Weird to be correcting poita of all people, but... Although VHS isn't fully YPbPr, it is Y/C thanks to the color-under process. S-VHS machines benefit from this with S-Video output of standard VHS tapes. A few of the enormous "broadcast" decks also have component outputs from their TBCs, along with some D-VHS. Whether they look any better than the S-Video output of the same machine... I very seriously doubt it since the color bandwidth is so low.
A few VHS-DVD combos also offer component and even HDMI output of VHS, but apparently some of them have dot crawl so they don't use a fully separate path.
You tune them directly with your TV? Does that mean there's no metadata displaying the song title?
If only an HDTV can decode them, they're digital ClearQAM. A simple USB stick like this should allow you to record the original transport stream data. I'm not sure what a good one is, since most reviewers use these for over-the-air.
RCA to 3.5mm cable -> sound card's line-in.
Return for exchange? At least then you'll know whether it's the card itself.
Methanoid said:
The Mine HD887 is recommended but I cannot find. I can find an Oupree HD887 here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151408748211 - is that the same?
That one uses different chips, and I don't see any indication that it will capture HDCP sources.
gtaking112 said:
Does anyone know where I can buy a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP from a reputable company that ships to Ireland?
If the Amazon seller of the ViewHD splitter won't ship there, a seller on eBay ships it worldwide.
The ATI 750 does work on Win7 x64. Not sure why it's causing so many problems for you.
I did notice a little dot crawl in the Aug 26 test clip; was that before you added this filter?
It eats into a few edges, but overall that looks much better than the original image. I'm impressed as I didn't know there was something significantly better than TComb.
I personally find the processed image a bit dark though. Maybe it's a gamma thing.
Well, as a Super35 film, even the VHS was never P&S. (This post and scroll down for more throughout the page.)
PDB said:
He indicated that the CDS was created using a Dolby Stereo encoder/decoder to create a surround channel. That means that the CDS would most likely have mono surrounds. That's important to note because even though CDS supports full 5.1, Terminator 2's CDS track would be 4.1
I may be misunderstanding what you're saying, but he specifically said "for the music".