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2-Nov-2007
Last activity
12-Mar-2021
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Post
#1416997
Topic
NEVER SAY NEVER AGAIN (1983) Fan Edit (a WIP)
Time

This was tackled pretty thoroughly already many years ago, and more recently even went from DVD resolution to HD via an overhaul. Here’s the latest thread…
https://originaltrilogy.com/topic/NEVER-SAY-McCLORY-AGAIN-HD-REMASTER-Released/id/59789

An older one…
https://originaltrilogy.com/topic/Never-Say-Never-Again-Eon-Edition-unfinished-project/id/14499/page/1

FanEdit.org listing…
https://ifdb.fanedit.org/james-bond-007-never-say-mcclory-again/

Post
#1413372
Topic
The Rugrats Movie - Color Grading Project (WIP)
Time

MrColeslaw said:

That looks fantastic, thank you so much for giving it a go! Are you using add-on Virtualdub filters, or just what’s built in? Been years since I’ve touched VD, so my memory is fuzzy on what’s included.

Definitely a number of add-ons: Gradation curves, Color Mill, Color Balance, Multi-adjust, plus a couple of built-in ones. I’m not really saying “you should go my route!” It could well be that using all those things at once on your master will give you artifacts. I was just wanting to give a try and see what I could do for kicks, just kinda fun for me. 😃

The background art being different, I wonder why they went through the extra trouble? I don’t recall a case like this before for a number of shots (that have nothing to do with censorship).

I’m actually not remotely an authority on this show/movie, have never seen any of it. I just wanted to try the matching with VDub…so I have no sources or anything to offer, sorry. Hopefully someone chimes in offering your ideal materials.

Post
#1413282
Topic
The Rugrats Movie - Color Grading Project (WIP)
Time

MrColeslaw said:

does anyone know of the best software for color grading?

Well, I’m just a simple feller who likes using VirtualDub for many things. 😃 It’s surely not the best there is for color correction, but fwiw here’s the result of my messing around (with a just screen grab – hence the noise and blockiness – of your “home video colors” frame on screenshotcomparison).

image

Did you notice that the trees are very different between your trailer and the home video snapshots?

Post
#1404453
Topic
Color matching and prediction: color correction tool v1.3 released!
Time

I still have yet to try this tool. A part of me likes succeeding at manually matching things. (I accomplished a seamless match across two pieces of mismatched footage just earlier today! So satisfying!) But I’m surely wasting time with those cases by not just using this tool.

One day I’ll hit a brick wall or 'll get fed up or something, and will finally…

Post
#1403417
Topic
Funny People (2009) 35mm Preservation Opportunity (CANCELLED)
Time

UPDATE: I spent the last half hour writing and editing this post, and see you just cancelled. Well, I’m still going to post what’s below anyway after spending that bit o’ time 😃

darksteel1335 said:

…approx £150 shipping to Australia…

… If anyone can recommend a scanner in Melbourne, Australia that would be appreciated so that it keeps costs lower

Assuming the listing you’re talking about it the same one I just looked up…

That seller is in the UK, and that region has some world-class scanning facilities I believe. E.g., Arrow is in the UK. So, ponder this longish shot: maybe the seller drives by Arrow on his/her way to work each day and if so then maybe he/she would be open to just dropping it off? I mean, shipping a full 35mm print is a pain in the ass, so if the longshot happens to be so, he/she might well much prefer just dropping the thing off at a scanner if in their area rather than deal with packing, shipping, tracking the thing across the globe, would maybe just charge you £5 for petrol. 😃

So, to reword it: check out the great scanners in the UK, then pass those addresses to the seller with querying if a scanner just happens to be in their area, and if so would they be willing to just drop the print off. After the scan, you’d be dealing with the shipping person at Arrow (or whoever) who of course has vast experience shipping prints around the world, which might be better in some ways than having the seller ship it to you.

Of course if Melbourne happens to have a great scanning facility (that you can just drive the print to personally) then groovy. It’s just that when I saw the seller is in the UK it clicked in my head they do some great scanning there in more than one place IIRC. (Melbourne… Since that’s your city, can’t you just do a local look up, make a few phone calls yourself? You wouldn’t even need to use long-distance minutes 😃)

Hopefully a user or two here who has checked into scanning in the UK will chime in here. I have no experience with this, am just going off of reading these forums over the years.

Post
#1392485
Topic
44rh1n's "The Fellowship of the Ring" Extended Edition Color Restoration (Released)
Time

To get back on this thread’s topic…

44rh1n, your Extended Edition Color Restoration here, are you thinking about maybe using bits of the new 4k — ala maybe "average"ing or "median"ing — to help the shots you couldn’t get to your satisfaction, or just use them as inspiration, or are you just going to leave it as is (or some other option)?

Post
#1392230
Topic
44rh1n's "The Fellowship of the Ring" Extended Edition Color Restoration (Released)
Time

I’ll put this last one from my looking around, one that puzzles me most. I don’t know if these are real mountains or purely effects, but regardless it’s strange how the 4k frame is without as much detail…

https://caps-a-holic.com/c.php?d1=5240&d2=15006&s1=48928&s2=156526&x=665&y=172&i=16&a=2&go=1&l=1

I don’t suppose anyone knows if those are real mountains — is real footage that would’ve been scanned at 4k as claimed — or just pure effects/CG?

Post
#1392039
Topic
44rh1n's "The Fellowship of the Ring" Extended Edition Color Restoration (Released)
Time

I was looking in the blu-ray.com forum thread about the 4k release and came across this compare (link), which was a bit 😮 to me. Note that I’m not a possessor of these disks, haven’t watched anything in motion; this is just me pointing out stuff others put up, which may be quite “cherry picked” by one of the more frustrated persons there.

That said, I’ve never quite seen something that struck me as much in regards to cranked-up DNR doing damage (well, excluding the dress in Cinderella!) and in an image that’s ideally supposed to have a lot more resolution(/detail) than the BD…

https://screenshotcomparison.com/comparison/8656

Luckily, people in that thread generally say the good of the 4k set outweighs the bad, sometimes by a huge margin for some, so this compare is surely more just a blip of excess DNR rather than an indication of the whole set being remotely like this.

Post
#1390976
Topic
Stanley Kubrick's Barry Lyndon - German Version (RELEASED)
Time

What’s the name of the font-making software you’re using? I guess I’m rambling on about this as I fear that in the future I might need to do real font customization again and wonder what’s at the top of people’s picks.

\ Edit: Big blab about font work here (and CG software), a bit tangenty perhaps, IGNORE IF NOT INTERESTED 😃 /

I’ve done similar, a long time ago — '90s-early '00s — with FontCreator (I think that’s what it was called).

Since then all my “font customizing work” has been a little off the beaten path: in my CG software…which can’t use a font rather directly like Photoshop, Word, and many many other programs. With my CG software you use a “Create text” tool; you type into its field the text you want and select the font, then the software creates a (flat) CG object/mesh of that text. You use — can fully manipulate — that CG object from then on in (extrude, texture, jitter points, on and on and on, really neat!) but it now has zero connection with the TTF file that created it. I.e., if you decide you want what it says to be different then you need to go back to square one to re-create OR alter the CG object you’ve created using object editing techniques if that happens to be easier (<-ala if you need to change “STACEY” to “STACY” you can just change/edit the CG object by hand in a few seconds…but if you find you now need “STACY” instead of “NORUL” then you have no choice but to go back to square one to re-create/re-type…)

If I decide I’m going to make a custom “font” (for use only in my CG software/scenes) I would get the closest existing font, then type a line with every letter, numeral, punc, and have the tool generate my new alphabet object, then I’d go to town modding (dragging around, adding, deleting points that define the shape), perhaps only a few letters if that’s all the end-result required…and of course if I’ve perfectly cleaned up the “I” I can often copy much of that work over to the vertical stalks of the “H” to save some work/time, then leapfrog that work to the “U” then “V”, etc. if needed.

The usage method of the end result is crude though: When I want to “type” something out with my new lettering I copy the CG-object letters I need and place them by hand (but am very careful to lock their horizontal position, I never allow them to shift up or down). If I’m lucky, my needed text will fall in line with alphabetical arrangement in spots, such as “AB” “DE” “GH” “LM”, to give me strong/definitive suggestions for kerning in at least a few spots. A cool thing about CG software is that all kinds of manipulation is very fast, so if I need two letters on the alphabetical line that are reverse of how I need them — e.g. I need “PO” instead of “OP” — I can still grab “OP” and flip the whole of the pair then flip the “P” (to keep their original kerning); in two seconds my “OP” is now a perfect “PO”.

This all is really only for titles and short bits of text though, no paragraphs. Luckily I have yet to do a project where I needed paragraphs of (custom design) text; I was always able to just straight use a font already out there for that and let the tool do (almost) all the placing/kerning.

Based on what you said, Hutt, I guess I’m kind of lucky with this custom (CG) alphabet approach in a big respect because my kerning is just done by hand, sliding letters horizontally until they’re right, which is fast and always looks great (unlike Arial’s kerning with “rt” always being too close, at least IMO, needing a tiny space inserted).

Outside of my CG software I’ve also been lucky I guess in that I’ve either been able to find a font good enough for my needs, or any mods I needed were so minor they were easily doable (in Photoshop) without editing a TTF file. But I would like to know if there’s something good, perhaps free, out there I could have on hand just in case.

If you made it this far I hope it was of enough interest 😃

Post
#1388182
Topic
Stanley Kubrick's Barry Lyndon - German Version (RELEASED)
Time

The funny thing about it: the names are actually from the original English HD footage. They were not touched at all.

Ah, wow! I think subconsciously I figured something like that was going to be the case, hence all my "chotto"ing/softening. Still, consciously it’s a bit shocking to learn that! That “ST” just looks so off 😃

.

I am quite eager not to cut any corners

…despite you doing all this for free, just out of the love of the project…! Kudos to your attitude, and hopefully you have all positives come your way as results of these versions you’re doing.

I’ll toss out while here, please keep throwing us these images/examples. Even if people aren’t replying much I’m pretty sure a lot of people are interested seeing what you’re doing, are taking peeks. 😃

Post
#1388153
Topic
Stanley Kubrick's Barry Lyndon - German Version (RELEASED)
Time

Well, Mr. Hutt, once again it seems I’m one of the only people posting in your threads (even though I’m not German, don’t know German), but I’ll say good job and cool stuff! 😃 I’ve done some reworking fonts, but not to the extent you have here ala dealing with the two designs of R’s, N’s, K’s (and your spending so much time on just the kerning) so thumbs up for putting so much effort into it! The CO quote looks great!

To mention something more specific about your last posted images, your “TEIL 1” title looks awesome, but on the second one that opening “ST” on Stanley is kind of distracting with the different sizes of the letters. Seeing your meticulous work, what you have is surely a good reproduction of the original reference, but maybe something about an HD version needs tweaking over what your VHS reference seems to convey? Just a casual two-cents observation for kicks; if you’re seeing that what you have is correct then don’t mind me 😃

Post
#1380154
Topic
Info Wanted: Buck Rogers In The 25th Century - HD Widescreen Theatrical Cut?
Time

A couple of people above made “coming soon” mentions of it, but now up on Amazon for pre-order is the (KL) new HD version of the theatrical cut. I’m worried about putting a direct link as it could change or the like, but on US Amazon search for

  • “Buck Rogers in the 25th Century - Theatrical Feature”
    or
  • “Buck Rogers in the 25th Century - The Complete Collection”

Release date: November 24, 2020.

Post
#1378816
Topic
Harry Potter Edit Ideas
Time

Chase, regarding the Dobby shots…

I’m not any kind of authority on HP. I’ll just say that your version looks neat and cool except for the lurch when the supposedly seamless cut happens (to your effects work frames).

For the first shot there’s a little bit of a zoom in. For the second, everything in the b.g. shifts to the right a little (the window frame and bed and such, plus Harry eyes go from open to closed instantly, plus the focus for him goes pretty soft). Can you easily enough get those two lurches in difference out with a little more work? If it wouldn’t take you too long…

It seems like you’re really close to having a great shot here and it’s just this side mess, not the main effect itself, that’s hampering things. I understand that for the second shot it might mean masking Harry out as his own element (and having the b.g. linger so that it doesn’t shift) and maybe that’s beyond the amount of effort you want to put into this. (Off the top of my head also, if you could get Harry as his own element you could do a two or three frame dissolve at the cut area to solve the eyes open-closed issue.)

Just my thoughts. Again, your main effect with Dobby looks pretty neat to me! 😃

Post
#1373495
Topic
Help Wanted: 'Anne of Green Gables' (1985) Bluray image restoration project
Time

Oh wow, that’s quite impressive!
Could I use virtual dub for a first correction then use Premiere Pro to do some tweaking?

VirtualDub doesn’t let you do pieces of a file, only the whole thing (that’s loaded) and you’re talking different scenes needing diff work. Ultimately if Premiere is to be in your workflow for sure then let’s hope it can do everything that VDub could do to keep your life simpler. I don’t have Premiere (!) so I can’t say what it will and won’t do for you with this, but I’d imagine AP could surely kick some pretty serious color correcting, contrast adjusting, etc. butt here in 2020.

But let’s say Premiere fails to go the distance in some spots and you want to give those bits an as-suggested pre-boost in VDub. If you do coloring work in VirtualDub you really should save it out as a lossless (avi) file, using the Lagarith lossless codec, so that you lose no quality (well, more or less; it’s up to you not to overdo the filters and jack up the image). If Premiere insists you turn that avi file into something else before it’ll read it… 😦 You’re talking a lot of hard drive space and computing power. A 45 minute BD rip when turned into a lossless avi will be about 100GBs. 😮 But if you have a powerful as hell computer and empty terabytes on more than once drive in your system then perhaps…? Or if you need only one or two scenes with such a pre-boost?

There’s also scripting (Avisynth) which is the better path apparently for things, but that’s out of my league to a large degree so I won’t suggest or comment. On this note, let’s see of others chime in with better advice and knowledge than my simple little mind is trying to offer. 😃

Who is Dr. Dre?

A feller known in these parts for being a wee tad decent-plus at working with movie colors. Here’s where he’s a bit active recently (currently)…
https://originaltrilogy.com/topic/Harmys-STAR-WARS-Despecialized-Edition-HD-V2-7-MKV-Released/id/12713/page/673#1366137

He created a legendary tool (although I haven’t used it myself) called Dr. Dre’s Color Matching Tool that’s used by people on many sites it’s that good apparently
https://originaltrilogy.com/topic/Color-matching-and-prediction-color-correction-tool-v13-released/id/18128

Post
#1373479
Topic
Help Wanted: 'Anne of Green Gables' (1985) Bluray image restoration project
Time

Me again

I’m not a master color grader by any stretch, but I put your BD image into my VirtualDub and used just three primitive-ish filters, and think the end result is passable, natural enough now, hm? So it would seem with better tools you could do better than this quick job. (I know it’s not a perfect match to the SD side, but that side looks a tad dark and over-saturated to me, but maybe that’s just me.)

My criticism of my own work here might be the flesh tones are a smidge pink-ish, but I personally don’t know how to pull so much yellow out from the (BD) image and keep yellow in the skin. Maybe Dr. Dre knows. 😃

image

Post
#1373418
Topic
Help Wanted: 'Anne of Green Gables' (1985) Bluray image restoration project
Time

Hi ykarus1974

I would convert the resulting mkv to MT2S files

I’m pretty sure MakeMKV can make verbatim copy of your BD straight to M2TS, a “pure rip” so to speak; it at least gives you m2ts files. (For the longest I assumed that it couldn’t do this, would only give you MKV container’d output but…)

Use “Backup” (second icon from the left). 😃 Then you’ll save a whole step of converting MKVs to MT2Ts (and likely losing quality).

Post
#1343601
Topic
Technical Help required for a Fan Edit: 'Sonic X' - with the Audio Mixes...
Time

My two cents…

I have a pal who’s a professional movie audio guy, and the studio he works at — which does sound mostly at the documentary/indie films level (not huge Hollywood) — has lots of high-end sound software to (try to) accomplish all kinds of weird clean up of audio that low-to-no-budget indie and docu filmmakers throw their way. For some of my movie restoration work I’ve thrown him small clips — less than a minute long — for cleaning out dialogue or music from something already mixed to stereo or mono, and while this is totally in his wheelhouse and while his results were decent-to-good (but not perfect) some of these bits took him an hour to do; an hour of his time using all the resources at his studio/work to clean out music or dialogue from a .wav file under a minute long.

So my two cents is that it seems things aren’t there yet as far as your initial request and that you look well into the alternative mentioned by ThatPixarGuy as your solution…although it would be cool if someone chimed in here with a cleaning method that works really well and is not nearly as time intensive.

Post
#1242463
Topic
JAWS 2 - Extended Integral Edition (Released)
Time

The owner is looking into the price of shipping it to me vs getting it transferred locally.

When it comes to capturing VHS, I hope you’re aware of “averaging,” “merging”…I think the technique has another name too. I personally never capture from VHS without doing this as the benefits are so very worth it (wiping out tape noise plus increasing detail without using de-noising or sharpening filters/tools). You are likely familiar with averaging, but since it seems you’re only going to get one stab at acquiring this footage I figured I’d mention this just in case. Great stuff, good luck! 😃