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Spaced Ranger

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22-Feb-2009
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13-Feb-2017
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Post
#735816
Topic
Info: Lord of the Rings Trilogy - on 35mm - for sale on ebay; anyone interested?
Time

poita said:

LOTR , TTT, ROTK have come up on the 35mm forum at $1800 for the entire set.

     Oh be still my beating heart!

(Any images available?)

.

CatBus said:

... I'm not sure it's at all clear that projection prints like these would provide noticeably more detail--perhaps even less.

 Could this really be true?


              35mm                          Blu-ray
???

Post
#733658
Topic
Info & Sale: It's Your Big Day !! LASERDISCS @ $1.50 + exact shipping (from an eBay seller)
Time

In wandering around OT, lo these many days, I’ve come to see many of the restorations and preservation harken back to the old & trusty laserdisc releases for that way things should be. eBay has many sellers of laserdiscs. That’s good! And sometimes there are big-time sellers with wide-ranging sources and high-count inventory.

While looking around to see what was available, I came around one such seller with an Aliens laserdisc up for auction.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aliens-Laserdisc-VIDEODISC-Classic-Fox-Video-/141103436631

But that’s not the important part. Further down into his description, he had this:

If you are more interested in the movie than the cover and would like a list of my - “DISC’S IN GREAT CONDITION, COVERS NOT SO GOOD”.  I sell these for $1.50ea plus exact shipping. You must buy three or more to cover the price of the box and label or you can add one on to an existing order. If you are interested please let me know and I will forward you a list and set up a private listing for you on ebay. After 6 discs they are $1 ea… They will come with a sleeve and cover.

So, happy shopping 'cause those restoration are waiting for you! And the seller? He’s “itsyourbigday”, of course …

Post
#732674
Topic
Music only cable channel audio capture?
Time

drngr said:

If only an HDTV can decode them, they're digital ClearQAM. A simple USB stick like this should allow you to record the original transport stream data. I'm not sure what a good one is, since most reviewers use these for over-the-air.

Better yet, get a USB stick that can also snag the analog stereo signal (RCA connectors) right from your TV's audio in/out (may require a Y-cable for easier access):



Newegg: KWorld Hybrid TV Stick UB445-U2 USB 2.0 Interface

Note the "multi-cable" adapter for composite, S-video, & L/R audio.

Normally I'd suggest using your DVD recorder as the capture device, but this USB stick puts the signal directly into your computer, where you can make up a proper MP3 with tag info, album cover picture, and such, at minimum fuss.  ;)

Post
#731569
Topic
Amadeus - Laserdisc+DVD Audio Tracks for 4K (formerly Theatrical Cut Restoration)
Time

SilverWook said:

As the Dolby Digital track is in the right analog channel, yes.

Thanks, SilverWook. I've been looking around, before and after, for laserdisc audio information but everything I find is rule-of-thumb or just plain incomplete.

Would you (or anyone else) know if such a single, analog channel can hold something like an FM-stereo signal (which is supposed to be multiplexed analog) for, ultimately, stereo output coming from that one analog channel?

I don't mean this theoretically. Rather, could this Amadeus channel be stereo? And is it actually stereo? (Sorry for the ignorance. I just don't know much about laserdisc details.)

Post
#731019
Topic
Blade Runner Color Regrade (Released)
Time

This was the old Disney TV series Zorro. Originally filmed in B&W, Disney later colorized it (and did a quality job of it, too). Both versions are now on DVD ... if you can find them.  :)  This particular test was of the first episode.

The "fixes" were rudimentary, just for the proof-of-concept. In a paint program, the YouTube snapshot (shown here actual size) was heavily smeared to reduce the pronounced compression artifacts. For actual video processing with an Avisynth script, a proper deblocking filter would be a better start.

The Blade Runner laserdiscs are not this bad. (That's why I suspect there must be some odd variations in the Blu-ray that would require fixing, too.)

Post
#730963
Topic
Blade Runner Color Regrade (Released)
Time

PDB said:

I don't have that particular scene yet with the Criterion yet (only have a copy of the first side so far). But when I get it I will send it your way. If noise is the problem, the Criterion may not be much more help since it is very soft and noisy. 

Thanks -- whenever you can grab'em!

Up until now, noise hasn't been any problem at all for the color (H-S) source. I once made a test H-S-L mix from a half-size, compressed, color YouTube video and the full-size, quality broadcast, B&W TV capture:

It looks just great, even into the shadows! Granted, the overall look of each source was the same (same Lightness spectrum spread -- something I took for granted, up until now).

I'm beginning to think Blade Runner had some funky processing done to it and that the Blu-ray is really a bit of a mess. My first order of business will be a close look at the Blu .PNG to see what it's got and what it's not.

Post
#730841
Topic
Blade Runner Color Regrade (Released)
Time

I am still perplexed by the appearance of "recombination noise". In my assorted proof-of-concepts of the HSL-mix technique, I haven't come across this kind of anomaly. (Although it did prompt the further development of the process -- normalizing the Lightness spectrum between the sources. That alone was worth the work.)

Can you link to non-recompressed, full-sized caps in .PNG format of that exact frame from the Blu-ray (1920x1080) and the Criterion (letterbox) Laserdisc (720x480)? Even if you're not going to consider this approach, I'd like to look into the problem. (Thanks.)

Post
#730749
Topic
Amadeus - Laserdisc+DVD Audio Tracks for 4K (formerly Theatrical Cut Restoration)
Time

jimbotron235 said:

Audio options I hope to include in Version 2:

...

3) Isolated score mix (from 1997 DVD, or replaced with Pioneer track if superior)

 The Pioneer Special Edition gatefold laserdisc (1996) is shown at LDDb.com as ..

Does it mean (if this listing is accurate) that the music-only soundtrack is monaural, even if it is better audio (uncompressed, etc.)?

Post
#730700
Topic
Blade Runner Color Regrade (Released)
Time

PDB said:

While I was reading this, I was wondering if it would be possible to DNR the Pan and Scan to remove the noise and reduce the clumping of the colors. That way you have little detail/noise but should maintain the colors.

I tried that, too, before my previous post. It over-smoothed and the result looked like the LD.  :D  We (I) really shouldn't be testing with JPEGs, which doesn't help the noise factor.

Looking back at it, I noticed the alignment was off. Apparently the 2 frames were out-of-sync or the LD frame was horizontally warped. I had to split LD, differently resize each half, then rejoin them to force alignment with Blu. My 2nd test series is made from that (keeping in mind not to over-smooth).

With a better alignment, each was H-S-L separated ..

.. and re-joined (the yellow outlined ones -- Hue & Saturation from Laserdisc for the desired color; Lightness from Blu-ray for the desired detail) without de-noising that first time ... just for procedure's sake (it's the scientist in me):

Actually, this doesn't look as shockingly bad as in the previous series. Maybe the alignment was a factor? Unacceptable noise, though.

Next I tried smoothing the LD, thinking it's noise was the culprit (can't blame a Blu-ray cap, right?). The Median Filter (value = 7) in the paint program created a strong blur to smear those color veins back into the rest of the flesh. The result after H-S-L recombination was:

Well, that was an improvement, but still unacceptable. Looking closer at the original Blu-ray revealed a weird type of noise -- like it was over-processed at some stage. I would try to de-noise that, but more carefully, for this next recombination.

My favorite de-noising tool is JPEG Artifact Remover. It targets small areas of "out-of-place" pixels, the kind JPEG compression creates, without touching clearly "properly-in-place" ones. It's quite amazing on any kind of noise (regardless of which approach you use, I'd recommend applying something like this to the Blu-ray source anyway). I set it to High, the 3rd of 4 levels. A light Edge Preserving Smooth was used to take care of open areas (yes, it still needed it). With both H-S and L smoothed it their various ways, the result was:

Ah ... good for de-noise, bad for de detail. This was where I was when I concluded the sources just wouldn't work well together. Maybe because the one was light and the other dark.

Then it hit me -- the previous end results were too dark to match the Laserdisc without post processing anyway. Why not adjust Blu-ray's Lightness-separation as an additional step just before recombination!? We want the detail of the Blu, which isn't altered with a brightness change! The resolution and it's detail stays the same. So that's what I did ..

It was easy. Only 2 settings on the paint program's Histogram (Gamma = 1.25, Midtones = -4) to bring the Blu Lightness range (on the right) in line with the LD Lightness (on the left). Recombining this Blu L (no noise reduction) with previous LD H-S (with noise reduction) produced this:

Now that's more like it ... in both ways! A spot-on match to the Laserdisc (of course) AND a lower noise level without de-noising the Blu-ray. However, with a little Blu de-noising (just JPEG Artifact Removal this time), it looks even better but with a little softness (let's blame that necessity on the noisy sources, okay?):

.

So, having said all that ... and in consideration of snapshot degradation from multiple re-encodings and re-sizings ... here's my RGB-histogram color-correction:

to match this Pan&Scan Laserdisc

 

Histogram color-correction directly to Blu-ray

And ... Color-correction wins.

Unless HSL demands a rematch with original sized, non recompressed sources.

:)

Post
#730194
Topic
Blade Runner Color Regrade (Released)
Time

PDB said:

So if I follow you, basically you the take the luma/luminnce from the BR which contains all the detail information and overlay the color information from the laserdisc. ... I remember there was a AVIsynth script that did something like that. ... When I first tried color correction, I used colourlike/colourlikeFBF and could never get the results to what I wanted.

I never could get that script to work on the system I was using (with all it's Avisynth plugins, something must've conflicted). But, yes, the approach works only within narrow parameters. (They were having trouble with crushed & blown-out areas that simply wouldn't translate right.)

Here's my test. You've got the procedure right.

The Laserdisc provides the coloring (Hue, Saturation):

As shown, the pan & scan Laserdisc had to be resized and aligned to match the Blu-ray (always a pain to do in a paint program).

Just a note here: The source of the Laserdisc had pretty bad color-clumping that showed up ugly when the brightness (inherited from the Blu-ray) was lowered. I had to blur-smooth it to make the color more uniform in the final mix.

.

The Blu-ray provides the detail (Luminance):

.

And the combined H-S & L result is ..

Hmm. This looks a little underwhelming.

Aside from the fact that the Laserdisc rip's noise is coming through, the Blu-ray has some of it's own. They don't mix well and inheriting of the Blu-ray's darkness, to get it's detail, darkens and changes the coloring.

Your earlier posted regrade looks cleaner and more naturally like the Laserdisc:

And I'm guessing a (working) Avisynth script probably won't do better than the paint program demonstration.
It looks like regular color correction is the right approach. I would suggest, if you're going for a match to the Laserdisc, reducing Speedgrade's contrast a little. The face brightness range is a good measure, but it's hard to tell using these LCD monitors with their critical viewing angles.

Post
#730153
Topic
THX 1138 "preservations" + the 'THX 1138 Italian Cut' project (Released)
Time

SilverWook said:

Recent photo of a corridor at LAX. ... Bonus points if you know what 1980 movie also shot here. ;)

 I hate hard questions! Can I cheat (w/ StartPage.com searches)?  :D

EDIT (after cross-posting):
Okay, let me think.
Think. Think. Think.
Is it ... "Ariplane"?

.

AntcuFaalb said:

... I have nothing like "color" and "tint" capture-side ... so I might as well make use of the extra headroom and save this headache for post-production.

 Considering the info on analogue processes of TV, I tested my imagined correlation to a digital equivalent for your colorbar capture. Looks like it was right ... with the "hue wheel".

Your posted colorbar is shown here with my color separation strips (B&W w each's color as a border) superimposed. The paint program has a Hue/Saturation/Lightness adjuster with a color wheel that turns a full 360° to shift the hue of the spectrum.

At it's default settings of "no adjustment", each separation strip should have uniform intensity of areas where it is "on". But, here, Red and Green vary somewhat and Blue varies significantly.

.

To test this approach, I arbitrarily chose a -5° spectrum shift. The R-G-B separations showed worse variation. Success!  :D

.

Now, going in the opposite direction for spectrum shift, this time +5° from the default position, Red and Green variations all but disappeared! Blue improved but still varied:

.

Testing further (+10°), to try for Blue improvement, resulted in everything pushed too far -- creating worse uniformity for all R-G-B. Trying an additional shift of just the Blue part of the spectrum (from a drop-down menu selecting degree-range pre-sets) was ineffective. I'll try more testing along that line for improvement in Blue (maybe manually setting more effective degree-range endpoints?).

Post
#730034
Topic
Blade Runner Color Regrade (Released)
Time

PDB said:

The LD was a rip from the spleen. Given the information and pic associated with the listing it is most likely this:

http://www.lddb.com/laserdisc/28188/13805/Blade-Runner-(1982)

There are some pics from the LD in the opener. Here are a few more. ...

... I'm using davinnci resolve lite and timing by sight.

Thanks for the extra shots and info!
(I had edited my original post while you were replying -- cross-posting, but just correcting my oversight.)

I wondered if you had tried (or thought of trying) HSL separations of aligned Blu-ray (for L) and letterbox laserdisc (for H & S) sources to re-combine. I did see a little bit of a letterbox laserdisc ..

YT: Opening to Blade Runner: The Director's Cut 1993 CAV Laserdisc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYlSlcS-Hco

.. but it was mostly the titles and nothing of your choice snapshots. Of course, HSL remixing only works well if both sources are not too different nor have crushed/blown-out video areas (which would require repair first).

Post
#728801
Topic
THX 1138 "preservations" + the 'THX 1138 Italian Cut' project (Released)
Time

In reviewing the RGB-seps, I noticed that color variation of one affected the other color(s). It's almost like one color putting a drain on the other, when displayed at their maximum brightnesses. Weak electronic circuits? Maybe. Also, maybe, tint or/and color controls not at their optimum settings.

I'm new to the details of analogue TV theory, but this little snippet I found ..

"They combined red (R), green (G), and blue (B) into a luminance, or brightness, channel (called Y for historical reasons), a B-Y channel (called U or Cb depending on the context), and a R-Y channel (called V or Cr). On the other end, the television would convert B-Y to B by adding Y to it, and R-Y to R the same way. Then G could be recovered because Y is a simple weighted combination of R, G, and B, so G is just Y minus a small amount of R and B. ... [They] put Color and Tint controls on the display to allow users to correct for mismatches in overall amplitude of the three channels. Broadly speaking, the Color control raises and lowers the level of the Cb and Cr channels relative to the Y channel. This can correct errors where Cb and Cr are both too high or too low by the same amount. The Tint control rotates the Cb and Cr values around the origin of a 2D space." - http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio/setting-color-and-tint-2/

.. leads me to think the TV errors mentioned therein might be the "impossible" variations in your color-bars capture.

If you're not sure how to proceed, I suggest making multiple captures and taking careful records. Work from the controls' default settings. Vary each control to create all possible control-step combinations for tint and color. Take your sample and make an RGB-sep analysis (like mine) for each one.

This should give you an actual setting to even out the color-bar variations. If not, at least you should get a feel for direction where to vary the controls in half or quarter steps for better results.

Post
#728268
Topic
THX 1138 "preservations" + the 'THX 1138 Italian Cut' project (Released)
Time

From what I see, it looks fine. Your breakdown graphic (above) is right and your last shown capture/adjustment (top page) reads fine.

My eye-dropper (averaging 5x5 area) reads (RGB):

WHITE - 253,253,253 [±1]
BLACK - 3,3,3 [±1]
GREY - 191,191,191 [±1]

The only problem I see (and I don't know if that's fixable) is the blue's wide variation in the mixed colors -- demonstrated in my above color-separation strips analysis. The other colors vary, too, but that seems to be the nature of the analogue beast (more so with consumer equipment).  :)

Aside form all that, I noted my concern to not get too close to the bottom & top limits (0 and 255) to assure the media proper doesn't go out -- unless you can easily test it throughout the length of the movie(s). Of course, any stray pixels that differ from frame to frame shouldn't be a bother and should be allowed to be clipped at those limits.

Post
#727964
Topic
THX 1138 "preservations" + the 'THX 1138 Italian Cut' project (Released)
Time

Always glad to help where I can, and sorry about the confusion (of duplicating the color-bars limits for the broader capture limits). Which stirred me to thinking ...

The color-bars are a good relative guide but perhaps not representative of the included content. I mean, often I check and constantly see "professional" DVDs & Blu-rays crushing and blowing-out their spectrum limits. (That doesn't include Lucas or Jackson, BTW; they're allowed with their "license to kill" colors [cue 007 theme].)

Do you check that you never actually hit 0 or 255 during the entire stretch of the capture? Not that it's "illegal" to do just that. But we'd never know if such pixels were at 0 or 255 or actually beyond those limits.

Therefore, should your working safe-area be 1 thru 254, at minimum?

Post
#727907
Topic
THX 1138 "preservations" + the 'THX 1138 Italian Cut' project (Released)
Time

Yes, of course, you don't want your end result to be NTSC broadcast standard of my previously-posted colorbars' RGB numbers (16-235). Rather, you're shooting for the full color spectrum (0-255).

The capture is fairly noisy. Smoothing the image first (or using a larger pixel-sample for your eye-dropper tool) would make readings easier. The RGB numbers look fine ... except where there's Blue.

Overlaying R-G-B channel-separation strips (each outlined in it's color for easy identification), you see of your colorbars as if using those blue & red filters for TV adjustment. Red and Green filtered are nice and uniform. Blue is not.

It seems Blue mixed with all colors (grey) is okay. Mixed with only an individual color, and even alone, it varies significantly brighter or darker. Some kind of analogue blue-timing issue? Can your equipment make the specific analogue adjustments to correct this?

Across the various color combinations, it looks like Blue averages out to the norm. Maybe that's good enough if you can't take it any further.

Post
#727123
Topic
THX 1138 "preservations" + the 'THX 1138 Italian Cut' project (Released)
Time

"THX, this is Inner Control. You're off point 0 1 7 to the right. Correct it please."

Some time ago, I worked up a demonstration color-bars graphic, labeled with the standard's RGB numbers, for my future reference. The displayed colors are just for show but the numbers are the actual targets:

Your posted color-bars shows to be just a little off, by measuring the white (235,235,235) and black (16,16,16) areas:

In digital correction, the dark end of the spectrum should be raised a bit and the light end lowered a bit more. In capturing, this translates into a little less contrast, and sliding the resulting spectrum into the proper place with brightness (depending on how your hardware implements it's controls). When adjusted, all the rest of the colors fall roughly into their proper values. Finer tuning may require tint and color adjustments (but I have yet to work out those RGB equivalents to make further recommendations).