darthrush said:

So excited to see the new version coming together so nicely! I would love if one of ya’ll could point me to a tutorial on how you do these effects. I am pretty fluent in Premiere but haven’t touched After Effects yet.

YouTube is pretty amazing. I know it’s a catch all for learning pretty much anything, but it is super helpful in finding out how to do stuff. Just search for something specific you are wanting to do and be sure to add “after effects” to it.

Editroid said:

There’s no way to have the Revisited Saga in 4K, is there?

Not unless you wanna upscale it yourself

regularjoe said:

Darth Lucas said:

I’ve been mulling over how to make Luke’s death less sudden and stupid.
It might be kind of corny but I here’s how I see it playing out:]

How about the Luke death scene before Rey arrives on Achoo?

Bless you

Well, turns out I may not get to those scenes this week. Got slammed with work that I’m gonna need to give my attention to first. If Ridley can get to them before me, that is fine. But I seriously doubt I will be able to even sit down to look at it by week’s end. Sorry guys

FYI, here is what we are going to have to work with for the deleted scenes

via collider.com

I’ll work on it tomorrow and let you know. Though the clips I put out will be 720 due to restrictions on my machine. But I think it will be fairly straight forward. I originally didn’t do it when I first removed his hood because it was extra work and didn’t think anyone would notice. But I should have know trying to get anything past the eagle-eyed viewers of this community. 😉

EyeShotFirst said:

Just from memory things I’d like to see removed

• Cut Domhnall Gleeson’s over the top acting. Let him sneer and piss Kylo off, but cut the near orgasm he has when he’s drunk with power. He’s not bloody Palpatine.

• Cut the broom kid, and in fact cut most of that shit involving them. It reminded me too much of Phantom Menace.

• Cut the decoder rings…is this 1992? We getting those in cereal boxes?

• Trim most of the Casino stuff. I wasn’t bothered by it, but I feel it shifted the film’s tone, and sadly I didn’t care.

• I don’t mind the little shit weasle muppets, just trim most of their attention stealing stuff. I kind of liked watching Chewie eat one.

• Cut Kylo going emo with his helmet. I honestly think you could cut all scenes with him wearing it.

• Find a way to trim the meeting of Finn and Rose. Maybe cut the stunning part if possible, and swipe to him telling Hispanic Han about their plan.

• As stated before, trim droid nonsense.

• Cut Super Leia…perhaps find a way to have the explosion, and a cut to her in the hospital bed. We’d pretty much fill in the gaps that she made it.

I agree with all of this except the helmet stuff. It’s part of his being teased and called out by SNOKE, and plays into his finally offing him

Hal 9000 said:

It’s not the kind of thing that strikes me as easy, but I am out of my reckoning. 😃

Ridley, don’t feel bad if it’s out of the realm of possibility.

I’m kinda surprised that you said that it’s not possible. I think it could be. I could have a go at it as well and try if that helps.

Just found this at deadline.com

There’s a lot of movie here, though. It runs 152 minutes and moves around a lot.
RJ: We shot a lot, man. Just like any other film, it came together in the edit. The editing is the completion of the writing process. We were not at all precious about this film. We tore it apart. We ripped stuff out. There’s going to be a lot of great deleted scenes. I’m not trying to sell Blu-rays here, there are just going to be a lot of deleted scenes.
And it’s not just shots of characters walking down hallways, either. There are entire sequences that got lifted out of it, which taken on their own are some of my favorite sequences in the movie. But for the good of the whole, they had to come out. We rearranged stuff. We were constantly messing with the intercutting between the plot lines. There are very few of the intercuts that are in there as written in the script. We ended up re-engineering a lot of it during the course of editing because that’s what the edit is for. All bets are off, and you just have to make the thing work.

So hopefully there will be a lot to play with.

My biggest beef with the movie was there was no time to breathe. The pacing was at break-neck speed. I’m hoping some of the deleted scenes will have some nice establishing shots that we can pull frim

TavorX said:

It’s so odd to say it, but AOTC sold me on Star Warsy gambling hub; TLJ’s casino was like we took a time machine to the 1920’s and dropped aliens into it.
Also, I would LOVE to see someone fanedit podracers into the scene where the initial space horses are revealed.

Your one of those…

So any idea when we can expect TFA:R 2.1?

Sir Ridley said:

Having seen TLJ today I would say the Snoke scene can stay. I don’t think there are any contradictions created by the restructuring.

Glad to know, can’t wait for v2.1

It’s sad that because of this community I can never watch a Star Wars film without thinking of how I would edit it. I already have at least one definite edit I would make. More Green is all I will say

It’s sad that because of this community I can never watch a Star Wars film without thinking of how I would edit it. I already have at least one definite edit I would make. More Green is all I will say

i think all of my contributions have been nixed for the newest version of the edit, so if you wanna take me off of the list that is fine. i was happy to help with what i did.

Just go to Fanedits on reddit and search for hal9000

You’ll find it

Captain_Danielsan said:

Really great so far man. This is way more precise than the way I have been doing things. I’ve been wrapping the contents in the card stock and using masking tape etc. This will be my next project thanks.

Just remember that the measurements and picture diagram with the measurements are for example purposes and not intended to be used unless you are boxing 4 slimline cases.

RogueLeader said:

I can’t recall if the opening theme music was going to be replaced in this edit or not (I know other editors have and will replace it in their own edits). I know most people have planned to use the prequel version of the opening theme, but back when TFA came out on DVD, Adywan posted an edited version of the TFA theme that made it sound more like the London Symphony Orchestra’s versions that he planned to use for his own personal edit. Don’t know how to describe it, more “grandiose”? Anyway, I can’t remember when exactly he posted it but I went ahead and reuploaded the version he shared if anyone wanted to use it for their own or we wanted to consider using it for this version, since it is just an enhanced version of TFA’s own theme rather than using a different movie’s theme.

https://mega.nz/#!DFEgBBBY!tL7aTGM7yZGOg0UWMTj8zCzLjxahSt7jSKL7j2kP-Jg

+1
I know it’s outside the scope of this edit but it would be a much needed improvement

Hello, and thank you for checking out this post. If you are here it is probably because you are interested in making a box set, but you aren’t really sure how to do this, what tools to use, or even where to get started. Well have no fear, because in this thread I will be outlining and instructing you on how to go about actually doing this.

For this particular guide, I will be focusing on my own personal technique in box creation. Hopefully after this guide you will have the knowledge to make your own box and even some direction on how to customize the box to your liking.

I would also like to open this thread up to other box creators to share their thoughts and ideas on how to make this process easier and better than what I have been able to figure out on my own. So please feel free to chime in and add your personal methods so that we can better this part of the OTF Community.

I have been working on this through Google Docs. If you would like to see the original document, or check for updates visit; https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-47ZP342NenpBx_qe_11PdaA2_h4VY6m3fgSSOV8lxE/edit?usp=sharing

Also, I realize that this is technically a “How To”. However, this is specifically pertaining to Box/Art/Cover creation, so I thought I would drop it in here. If the mods think it should be in the “How To” Section of the forum, please let me know.

So without further ado:

HOW TO CREATE YOUR OWN CUSTOM BOX FOR DVD/AVCHD/BLURAY SETS

Supplies:

A Craft Knife - there are several different kinds you can get that are out on the market. I personally use an Olfa SVR-1 (http://www.olfa.com/stainless-steel-body-slide-mechanism-utility-knife-with-blade-snapper-(svr-1)/5018.html#start=36) These are nice because you can snap off the end and have a nice sharp edge to cut with when the blade gets dull.

Superglue - I use Gorilla Glue Gel (http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue-gel). It dries fast and is permanent once it is applied. You can usually get this at any craft or home store.

A Ruler - there is a lot of measuring and straight cutting for this project so this tool is going to be your best friend. I would suggest getting a ruler that is metal, or has a metal edge. I started out with a cheap plastic one, but I noticed that over time I was cutting into the plastic, which didn’t give me straight cuts anymore.

Spray Adhesive - I use Elmer’s Craft Bond (http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E421) but you can also use 3M spray adhesive or any other spray adhesive that has a permanent bond. I personally like the Elmer’s because it isn’t super aggressive for the first few minutes yet is still permanent once it has dried. Which is good because sometimes there is a bit of play when applying your art to the box.

Mounting Board - This will be what the core of your box will be made out of. I personally use black core conservation board, but you could use any mounting board or matte board. The most important thing about choosing your box material is to make sure that it is sturdy. The conservation board I use is about 1/16” or 2mm thick and holds up quite well. You might want to buy a few of these just in case you make a few too many mistakes as you make your box. (https://www.dickblick.com/items/13016-2005/)

Artwork for the Box - this part is entirely up to you and the type of media you are going to be “boxing”. I will eventually make available in the future my personal artwork for a 3 disc case Despecialized box set. But because there are so many different variations, it would be a lot of work to cover every combination of disc case. Please refer to the rest of the guide to see how to create your own template for your art.

Clear Spray Acrylic (optional) - I would suggest picking up a can of this from a hobby store. It’s mainly made to “set” art, like charcoal drawings, sketches and pastels. But it works great on ink printed and laser printed art for boxes. Over time your box is going to get rubbed and bumped from taking it in and out of wherever you keep your movies. By spraying your box down with clear acrylic, it’s going to be able to stand up to more abuse and last longer. You can also purchase an acrylic with UV protection, just in case your box is going to be sitting out where the sun might fade the artwork. I use Krylon brand UV gloss acrylic (http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/).

Box Preparation:

Now that you have your supplies the first thing you are going to need to do is find out the dimensions of of the box you are going to make. This is going to be dependent on the type of cases and how many cases you will be “boxing”. Below are the dimensions for a single DVD/AVCHD/BluRay case. Most websites that have this information us millimeters instead of inches, so for this guide I will also be listing everything in millimeters. Plus millimeters is a bit more accurate than inches (all dimensions are taken from www.cd-info.com):

DVD/AVCHD:

• Height: 190mm
• Width: 135mm
• Thickness: 14mm (Standard) / 7mm (Slimline)

BluRay:

• Height: 171.5mm
• Width:135mm
• Thickness: 13mm

Constructing Your Box:

(Note: For example purposes, I will be using pictures and dimensions based on my personal Complete Saga Box Set that I am working on. This box set uses 4 slimline DVD cases instead of regular DVD cases.)

Now that you have the dimensions for the case you will be “boxing”, we need to modify these numbers a bit so that there is some wiggle room for the cases to slide in and out when we piece our box together.

For the HEIGHT you will add 5mm. This will give you about 1mm of space at the top of your case and 2mm each for the top and bottom piece of the box (going on the assumption that the material you are using for your box is 2mm thick).

For the WIDTH you will only add 3mm to the measurement of your case. This will put the spines of your cases right to the edge of the box and make room for the spine piece of the box.

For the DEPTH you will need to decide on how many cases you will have in your box. Multiply this number by the depth of one case and, depending on how tight you want the cases to fit in your box add 1mm - 2mm (I usually go with 1mm but for some this may be too tight and may want a little more play in the box). This will give you some wiggle room on either side of your end cases in the box so they can slide out but still maintain a somewhat tight fit.

Once you are ready with all of your supplies, you are ready to start cutting out the pieces for your box.

Start by measuring from the factory corner to the length of your case measurement plus the 5mm (In my case I measured 195mm), and make a mark. I usually mark my board with a small cut with my knife so that I know exactly where to start. From that mark, perpendicular from the factory edge, measure the width of your case measurement plus 3mm (or 138mm total) and mark your board. This mark will be in no-man’s-land, but it will assist you in making a straight cut. Finally, from the other end of the matte board, make a measurement of the width of your case measurement plus 3mm (138mm) again, and mark that as well. At this point you should have 3 marks: one on the edge of the board from the corner for the length, one on the perpendicular edge from the corner for the width, and one in the board that is your intersecting point for both length and width.

Now with a straight edge or your ruler carefully cut the width, from the edge mark to the intersection mark. Then do the same for the length and you will be left with either the front or the back of your box.

Once you are done you will have the first piece of your box. Set it aside and repeat these steps for your other side of the box. Once you have done this, both the front and the back pieces should be relatively the same.

You are now ready to cut out the spine of the box. Use the same method for the spine that you did for the front and back of the box. The length should be the same as the length of your box front and back. The width will be the thickness of your case multiplied by the number of cases you are boxing plus 1mm - 2mm. (for me this number was 29mm; 7mm for the case thickness, multiplied by 4 cases, plus 1mm for wiggle room).

Finally, for the top and bottom pieces follow the same method. However, this time the length will be about 1mm shorter than the width of your box front/bottom (so for the example the length of the top/bottom pieces are about 137mm). The width of the front/bottom pieces will be the same width of the spine (29mm)

When you are finished it should look something like this:

Here is a diagram of the measurements I used for my “Complete Saga” box:

The last step is to superglue all of the pieces together. I usually glue the top/bottom first by dabbing a line of superglue down the edge of the piece, line it up to the edge of either the front or back piece and hold it there for about 10-20 seconds. You want to try and make it as straight as possible. You will also notice that there is a considerable gap. This is where the spine piece will fit in.

Follow this same process for the other top/bottom piece. However, make sure that you are lined up with the previously glued piece, otherwise your gap for the spine will be on the opposite side.

Next glue in the spine by following the same steps that you did for the top/bottom pieces. You will also need to put some glue on the edges of the top/bottom pieces that will com into contact with your spine piece.

Finally, place glue on the exposed edges of the spine, and top/bottom pieces. Then quickly, but carefully place the remaining front/back piece on top of the spine/top/bottom, being sure to line everything up as best as possible.

Once you have given it time to dry (I usually wait over night just to be sure) it’s time to glue the artwork on.

Glueing Artwork:

(Since this is a work in progress I will be periodically updating this post with further instructions, stay tuned)

oojason said:

Jackpumpkinhead said:

I have a detailed box set tutorial that I have been putting together for a long time now. I just haven’t posted it because it’s not 100% complete. However, your post has inspired me to work on it again. Maybe by the end of the week I can have it ready to post.

I will say this, it does take lots of measuring and re-measuring. I have even held up my artwork to the box to double check the alignment.

I would also suggest using something heavier than cardstock. I use matte board from a art store; it’s heavy and durable and looks great when completed.

I’d love to see that too mate - I have a feeling it would be a welcome resource for many of us failed/failing box set makers 😃

well, it will be a reality if i can get some time to work on it.

I have a detailed box set tutorial that I have been putting together for a long time now. I just haven’t posted it because it’s not 100% complete. However, your post has inspired me to work on it again. Maybe by the end of the week I can have it ready to post.

I will say this, it does take lots of measuring and re-measuring. I have even held up my artwork to the box to double check the alignment.

I would also suggest using something heavier than cardstock. I use matte board from a art store; it’s heavy and durable and looks great when completed.

DominicCobb said:

Well, for a better image:

The guy on the right looks like the formerly evil (and less than human) Darth Vader unmasked. The guy on the left looks like they’re trying to make him look like a nice old dude. Doesn’t fit the character.

+1

Man, you talented folks are amazing!

my only tiny issue is the same as Ash, those 2 wipes, one right after another are a little weird to me. A wipe is a signifier of the transition of time IMHO and i think a hard cut would be better. but this is not my edit so…

Sir Ridley said:

Yeah, I see your point. It’s probably worth a try, to see how it works in practice.

That being said, where are you with the shots that you were working on? There hasn’t been an update on this edit in a while