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skeg64

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Join date
14-Sep-2004
Last activity
9-Sep-2005
Posts
41

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Post
#77362
Topic
Info: Stop ebay pirates
Time

One of the reasons this board exists is to stop ebay pirates from making money selling OT bootlegs, right?
Well, did you know that anyone can report an auction offering bootleg items? Simply go to this page (bookmark it!):

http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/bootlegs.html

Click “report” and send them the item number, or send multiple numbers at once. If we each did one report every day, we could eliminate the problem completely. I just did one then, this auction should be ended soon enough (if you get an “item not found” page, it worked):

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=617&item=6338521169&rd=1&ssPageName=WD3V

So go and report a couple now!

Post
#76913
Topic
.: The Zion DVD Project :. (Released)
Time
Originally posted by: zion
And another thing, my captures still seem to be missing a few pixels of both sides. I was hoping that by installing a new capture card and new drivers this would be fixed, but my new card is doing the same thing. Does anyone have any idea why I might be getting this? I wonder if VirtualVCR is causing this issue somehow?


Your card is a CX23881 based card. Those chips can only capture 688 horizontal pixels. For any capture resolution that you specify over that, the chip will either pad to the desired resolution, or scale the picture. If it is scaling to 720 then the AR will be incorrect, however I believe your card is padding the extra pixels.
You should capture at 688 x 480 and pad to get the desired 720 x 480. The added pixels should not be visible on a TV set anyway due to overscan. Don't worry too much about the lost pixels, as the quality of this chip outweighs the smaller capture window size.

Here is a thread I found that explains it clearly:
http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?s=81f70e93da02b8f99fc5cf8fbb8bbd52&threadid=73102&highlight=CX23881

If you want to understand the whole issue, start with these doom9 guides:
http://www.doom9.org/index.html?/capture/sizes_newbies.html
http://www.doom9.org/index.html?/capture/sizes_advanced.html
http://www.doom9.org/index.html?/capture/start.html
Post
#76749
Topic
.: The Zion DVD Project :. (Released)
Time
I'd say ditch the DTS track, because although it is better than DD, it will still just be a compressed version of the PCM track. If you put the PCM track on there you are getting the best sound possible from the LDs.
Not all DVD players can play DTS tracks, nor can older amplifiers decode it. But even ancient stereos can decode Pro Logic, and DVD players can all play PCM (they must in order to play music CDs).
So it's a choice of a compressed, less compatible DTS track, or a pure, highly compatible PCM track - I know which one I'd go for!
Post
#76748
Topic
Info Wanted: for my first steps on restorations?
Time
You want a Time Base Corrector or TBC. This will also help stabilise the picture if the tapes are old. The best one to get is the Datavideo TBC 1000 which sells for around $290 online. You can get cheaper things but they won't give as good results.
I would suggest starting at www.digitalFAQ.com. Then go to www.videohelp.com/www.doom9.org forums for more specific answers.
Other than that, you could always wait for MeBeJedi's and Zion's LD transfers which will be better quality anyway.
Post
#74571
Topic
***The MeBeJedi feedback thread ***
Time
Originally posted by: MeBeJedi


And why would an 8x8 compression artifact of a visual glitch be any bigger or smaller than any other 8x8 block of visual information? Everything is being enlarged when you zoom in - errors and all.


Laserschwert is right about this, MBJ. The macro blocks will be bigger relative to the picture. The compression artifacts will not be bigger than any other 8x8 blocks, but all the blocks will be bigger.
Divide a 4:3, 720x480 frame into 8x8 blocks. That's the size of the macro blocks on your letterboxed version. Divide the picture only (mostly), 720x480 frame into 8x8 blocks. That's the macro block size of your anamorphic version.
However, there should be enough space on the disc to minimise any macro noise. It will only have 2 audio tracks, simple menus and a 2hr movie, for a DL disc that is nothing. Also, you have more disc space because there is less movement in the image. This allows more bitrate, again reducing the presence of macro noise.

Originally posted by: BentMyWookie

It's obvious that not many people on this board have a widescreen TV as there display device because of all the crap that’s spouted off.
I'm worried that this influenced your decision to drop the 16x9 version, do you have a widescreen TV/display yourself?
I know that 4x3 screens are the norm in the US and only really HT enthusiasts seem to have them
However here in the UK the majority of people now have 16x9 sets (4x3 was ditched a few years back, you never see them in shops, only portable versions really)
In real life 4x3 letterbox would be the worst possible solution for viewing on these screens, the satellite channel TCM broadcasts their films this way as a sort of "mock widescreen" and you end up with a tiny rectangle (the film) in a black square (4x3) in the centre of the screen.
On my set (Toshiba (one of the best TV brands in the UK, along with Panasonic) you have to "stretch" the picture to 16x9 ratio then zoom in again.
Practically, a 2.35.1 anamorphic DVD will not fill the whole of a 16x9 display, but you will get thinner black bars and no loss in picture quality than you would if it was non anamorphic AND certainly MUCH BETTER quality then if you stretched out a 4x3 letterbox picture using the TV settings.


Here's an example of what I mean -- bentmywookie, you don't understand the argument. The 'fake' 16x9 that is broadcast by tv channels is not the same as a letterboxed DVD. To see what it looks like, find an old DVD that is 1.85:1 and not 16x9 enhanced. Put it in your dvd player and change the TV display settings to 'zoom'. This zooms-in on a 16x9 segment of the 4:3 image and stretches it. The black bars are the same size as the ones that are encoded onto a widescreen dvd. There is loss in picture quality if it is anamorphic, because you are creating resolution that isn't there in the first place, when you transfer from LD. Keep in mind that this is different to commercial DVD's which are created from film!
btw, I think you are using the wrong settings on your TV. You are describing the effect of stretching a letterboxed movie horizontally to fill a 16x9 frame (giving larger black bars). Your setting would give the wrong aspect ratio, and everything would look stretched. This is not the setting to use. The TV will have another display setting, called 'zoom' (or similar), which is designed for viewing LB properly on a widescreen TV. That's unless the TV station is broadcasting a "14:9" picture (a wierd hybrid ratio that some channels use to fill more of the screen). In which case you're better off leaving it, but nevertheless, it is different to what we are talking about.
And like I said, I own a 16:9 TV and would prefer the LB dvd. There is no-one here who is "spouting off crap", except those who don't know how to use their TV properly, and those who are programmed to automatically think that anamorphic=better.
Post
#74526
Topic
***The MeBeJedi feedback thread ***
Time
Remember to compare which one looks better on a 4:3 TV as well.

I think the results of this test would be that both look similar on a 16x9 TV, but the 4:3 version will look better on a 4:3 TV. Actually I would say that the zoomed 4:3 would be better than anamorphic on 16x9 because TV sets can resize the image better than a PC. But of course this is the argument that still goes on...

I see many posts on these boards from people who argue that anamorphic is the better choice, because they know that commercial anamorphic DVDs have a higher resolution. Therefore they automatically think anamorphic is better. But they don't realise that those are created from the original film, and these DVDs will not be. It is impossible to take advantage of the extra resolution when you don't have the source film. So either way you are just increasing the size of the picture to fill the frame. The debate then really comes down to whether a PC or a TV set is better at resizing the image.

Anyway, if you make both versions, I will be getting the 4:3 one even though I have a 16x9 TV.
Post
#74265
Topic
.: The Zion DVD Project :. (Released)
Time
Well since you are doing an anamorphic set, you don't have the option of burning them into the black bars, really. The black bars that would be put there on a 4:3 TV are not part of the encoded video (I realise you probably know this already).
If you were to put them burned in to the tiny black bars that are a part of the video stream, they would look odd on a 4:3 TV because they would be up too high. And on a Widescreen TV they would look really weird so far down.
You don't really want to burn them over the top of the video either, since that's not how they are on the LD and you would be losing some of the picture (this is just my preference though). If I am watching a letterboxed movie I would prefer the subs in the black bars.
I think that encoded subpicture streams give you more compatiblity with different shaped TVs.
Post
#74202
Topic
.: The Zion DVD Project :. (Released)
Time
Hey guys, for those of you doing anamorphic transfers, you are going to have major headaches with subtitles. I'm talking about the alien language bits, not the hearing-impaired subs. Normal subs can go wherever you want them. But for the alien bits, you want them in the same place on any screen.
The idea would be to create a subtitle file that looks as close as possible to the original prints, right?
So you might figure that you can do a screen capture of the print, bring it into Photoshop and create subs on a new layer in the same position as the originals, and with approximately the same font. Then save that layer as a BMP and use it for the DVD. You might think this would result in a DVD that has subtitles in the same position as the original, right? Well, that's actually wrong.
First of all, the subtitles will appear in different places of the picture depending on if you're using a Widescreen or 4:3 TV. See, subtitles aren't scaled with the picture to fit the TV. They are applied after the picture is scaled. They appear at the same distance to the bottom of the screen.
However, the picture will appear closer to the bottom of the screen on a Widescreen TV, and further on a 4:3 TV (due to the letterboxing). Got it? So the subtitles will be in different spots relative to the picture.
Fortunately, DVDs can have separate subtitles for Widescreen and LB. The player will only "see" the subtitles for that ratio. So you will still have 1 subtitle track when you look at it on a player, but in reality there are 2 subtitle tracks, one for Wide and one for LB. You will need a DVD authoring program that is capable of making different streams for Wide and LB. May I suggest you learn and acquire DVD Maestro. This is a professional authoring program that can do almost anything that DVDs are capable of. It's not sold anymore so you'll have to find a way to get it. Then you simply scale the LB track so that the subs are smaller and in the right spot. I can go into specifics but it will probably be an information overload at this stage.

OK, that's that problem solved, but now there's another (small) one. This is the problem of non-square pixels. If you take a screenshot of the print to make subs with, you will get a 720x480 bitmap. Fit the subs over it and they will look fine on a Widescreen TV or software player. BUT they will look too "tall" on a 4:3 TV. You will need to resize them in Photoshop so that when they are played back on a 4:3 they appear the right size. I'm currently figuring out the exact sizes you need for this. Anyway I can let you know when you are in the authoring stage.

To make this a bit clearer, I'll tell you why I have had to learn it. I am working on a DVD of an anime movie. There are 2 different versions, the japanese and the english version. Both are the same except for the opening credits. In the english version there are english credits alongside the japanese ones (basically they just float over the top of the japanese credits). I only want one video file on the disc. So I decided to recreate the english version by using a subtitle track that goes over the top of the video. I created subtitle BMPs which match these credits and made them play when the english version is selected. I managed to make subtitles that appear in the same place and with the right size for any TV, thus matching the english version of the movie.

If your goal is the same, that is to have the subtitles appear in the right spot on any TV so as to match the originals, then you will need to learn this stuff. Actually you will have problems even if you just want a Letterboxed DVD. I might write a full guide on this that will help you out. Or, I could make the subtitle files for you and email them over or something. But you probably don't want to worry about it till you are authoring the discs.
Post
#73631
Topic
Info Wanted: What other LDs are you all transferring?
Time
Originally posted by: Pemdawg
I've got the Blade Runner DVD, transferred from te Criterion LD. Its pretty good, though not as nice as what some of the guys here are capable of. I would trade you a copy for your Wings DVD when its done. Tat anime is great, and I hate watching my crappy old dubbed VHS.


The Wings DVD is done. I'm just waiting for DL media to be affordable, and to buy a DL writer.

It is basically the US disc with the Japanese video. Of course I still had to completely take it apart and rebuild it from the ground up. I added the 5.1 japanese mix too. I've got a single layer version for the mean-time which just has the movie with english/japanese 2.0 audio and english subs and a simple menu.
Post
#73038
Topic
<strong>The Cowclops Transfers (a.k.a. the PCM audio DVD's, Row47 set) Info and Feedback Thread</strong> (Released)
Time
Just a question about the new DVDs: Do they have JACKET_P pictures and do they have DVD-Text?

JACKET_P pics are the pictures that are displayed by some players when you press stop on the DVD. Most Sony players show them. Also if you have a DVD changer/jukebox they usually show a small picture for the DVD's that have them.

DVD Text is the text displayed on the LCD of a standalone player. It shows the title of the movie. Not all players support it.

It is a simple process to add them both. The jacket pictures don't take up much room and there would be room to add them. You simply put another folder on the DVD called JACKET_P with 3 specially formatted MPGs on it (along with the VIDEO_TS and AUDIO_TS files). For DVD text you use a freeware program called titlewriter.

If you like I can make the files and email them to someone (RiK?).
Post
#73037
Topic
Info Wanted: What other LDs are you all transferring?
Time
Originally posted by: Z6PO
Doing a transfer of Close Encounters of the 3rd Kind is a great idea! RowMan, will you use seamless branching to offer both the theatrical cut and the special edition of CE3K on your DVD?


True seamless branching is not possible on home-made DVDs at this point, unfortunately. There is a program on the Mac that costs $500 that can do it (but you have to have a mac too). The only other way to make seamless branching DVDs is on hundred-thousand dollar workstations from Sony etc.

You can make DVDs that point to the same data in Scenarist or DVDLab Pro, but there will be a slight pause when a branch is encountered on a standalone player (like a layer break). Commercial seamless branching DVDs are made by mixing small amounts of the MPEG files within each other so that the laser can skip across these small gaps. It is an extremely complex thing to do properly.

I know a bit about it because I am currently doing a W1ngs of H0nneam1se (anime) dvd, with the video from the japanese disc which uses seamless branching. (the numbers are not in the actual name I just put them there so no one finds it via search and gets me in trouble). The official DVD has shocking video quality so I'm making a disc that combines the us extras with the japanese video. But I can't recreate the seamless branching. Anyone interested in a copy can email/PM...

You can make one version play back normally and the other version play back with pauses though. Perhaps you should do this for Close Encounters, having the director's cut (laserdisc version) play back with pauses. Anyway I'd be in line for any copy of the theatrical version put to DVD!

Others that I'm after are Song of the South, Blade Runner theatrical and THX1138. I know these are out there but can't find anyone to sell me them. Anyone here got copies?
Post
#69081
Topic
***The MeBeJedi feedback thread ***
Time
"The current DVD will be 4x3. When it is complete, I will reformat it for 16x9."

Hey MBJ, what is the point of working in 4:3? Wouldn't it be easier to do it as 16:9 from the beginning? A dvd player would letterbox it on a 4:3 TV anyway.
Also, if you are just going to crop the black bars and resize back to 720x480 for the 16:9 version, you are essentially just stretching the picture, and this could be as easily done using the Zoom function on a 16:9 TV.
So the anamorphic version will not be any better than the 4:3 version, except you won't have to set your TV to zoom!