rnranimal

I'm sure there are other ways, but Toast is the only software I've used on Mac to burn VIDEO_TS folders.

schorman13 said:

rnranimal said:

Darth Mallwalker said:

SW: PAL 144053

ESB: PAL 150204 & 150205

 

Thanks! Would I be removing a frame's worth of audio at these points or adding it (in order to convert GOUT to Harmy)?

If possible, could someone post screens of these frames (well, just 150204 for ESB)? Would be a big help, don't think I currently have any software installed which tells the frame #. I found an old thread with a cap of SW 144053, but the pic link was no longer good.

 For Star Wars, if you can, the easiest thing to do would be to just output the PAL track from Audition.

For Empire, do what Mallwalker said.  set a +42ms delay when muxing in mkvmerge or whatever you use.

Thanks. I don't have Audition at the moment, but I'll download the patches in case I do in the future. Until then, I would just insert 42ms of silence in between the 144053 & 144054 frames, correct?

Darth Mallwalker said:

144053
Pic courtesy of Red5.
It's the last frame of the shot, and reel.


Harmy's ESB v2.0 didn't include those two PAL frames,
but did have an extra black frame at the start.
No edit required; just insert 42ms delay when muxing the streams
so audio begins at the second video frame

Thanks! Exactly what I needed.

Darth Mallwalker said:

SW: PAL 144053

ESB: PAL 150204 & 150205

Thanks! Would I be removing a frame's worth of audio at these points or adding it (in order to convert GOUT to Harmy)?

If possible, could someone post screens of these frames (well, just 150204 for ESB)? Would be a big help, don't think I currently have any software installed which tells the frame #. I found an old thread with a cap of SW 144053, but the pic link was no longer good.

Thanks for these. Especially the syncs.

If I wanted to use the SW and ESB syncs for Harmy's latest versions, is it just a matter of minor edits to do so? I seem to recall there being a frame difference in SW, but can't remember where. How about ESB?

Can't say, this particular DTS-HD stream is being reported as 48/16. Checking  around the net, that seems to be correct for this title. But it would certainly be very important to me to retain 24-bit with discs that offer it.

I don't have any other ripped Blu-rays to try, but makemkv is reporting Harmy's latest SW 2.5 & ESB 20. mkvs to also have 48/16 DTS-HD streams. Is that correct?

Got it to work. I used mkvtools to extract the FLAC audio and it gave me a valid FLAC that I could then decode to multichannel wav.

I have a blu-ray rip and I'd like to convert the DTS-HD audio to wav or flac files. I would like to keep each of the 5.1 tracks, not downmix to stereo.

What I've tried:

makemkv- I used this to create a mkv with FLAC audio. This program will convert the DTS-HD to 5.1 FLAC as part of a MKV, but I don't think it's able to save just the FLAC file.

I then used imkvextract to extract just the FLAC file from the MKV. However, I'm given a file with .??? as the extension and no decoder programs see it as a valid FLAC file, even after renaming. VLC plays it and reports that the audio is 5.1 FLAC. But I haven't been successful in using VLC to transcode to 5.1 wav, only a stereo downmix.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

SilverWook said:

That's what I do. It's just been murky to me if capturing digital LD audio through the analog outputs is audibly inferior to an all digital transfer. You have to process it anyway to make it DVD and Blu Ray compatible.

However I want to try doing it the "right" way if I can.

If your LD audio is destined for DVD/BD... Some would say, that if you need 44.1 to become 48khz, it's actually better to convert to analog and re-record at 48khz rather than use a digital resampling process. The 2009 Beatles CD remastering engineers chose this route in taking the 96khz transfers to 44.1 for CD. I personally would rather stay digital once I'm there.

Because of CX noise reduction, I'm not big on LD analog audio and have made it a goal to get perfect bit-bit digital extraction of the digital audio tracks, but that's become a headache and is on hold until I can spend some more time (and money, I'm sure) on figuring out a solution to the problems I'm having.

SilverWook said:

Current models are no longer limited to "Music only" recordable discs.

Got a Teac recorder new in box pretty cheap on Ebay.

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Teac-CD-RW890-Consumer-CD-Recorder-Player-108256876-i3043886.gc

Some Amazon reviews harped on the editing features, but I don't need those. LD's never had any sort of copy protection, so I don't anticipate any problems.

Once I have a capture, how do I determine it's accuracy to the source? Is bit perfect even something the human ear can tell?

There are two aspects to test for when wanting to achieve bit perfection. One, is the digital audio signal being altered/processed in some way by either the LD player or the CD recorder? Two, is your LD player doing a perfect playback of the digital audio track?

To test for #1, your LD player will need to be able to play CDs. Play a track from a CD in your LD player and record it with the CD recorder. Then extract that track from the CD-R using EAC or XLD (CD rippers). Then, take the original CD you were playing in the LD player and rip the same track using EAC or XLD. Now do a cancellation comparison on the two files. You may need to edit some samples to get both tracks into perfect alignment. If they match, your setup is playing and recording the unaltered digital audio track. If they don't match, depending on what audio is left behind in the cancellation process, we might be able to determine what type of alteration is being made. But you would most likely need to repeat the test with another LD or CD player to try and determine  which device is altering the signal.

To test for #2, you'll need to record everything twice and do a cancellation comparison. Any place that does not cancel out to pure digital silence, you did not get bit perfection. I'm running into this problem with my setup. So far, 4 of my LDs have recorded perfectly and match 100%, while two are giving me issues. At times, the difference is only an isolated sample here and there. Other places it's a section of many samples not matching up. Sometimes this isn't heard, other times I can hear light ticks. The LDs look totally clean and have no evidence of rot in the video, so I suspect my player is a bit weak at accurately playing digital tracks on certain discs. I don't have another player to try, which could possibly confirm if the problem is with the discs.

Could this be a 59.94 vs 60 frame rate issue.

Those are some good points. I'm going to check out that TBC software link, thanks.

An HDMI capture device alone might be within my budget. But then adding a modern multi-system DVD recorder with HDMI output, won't be. That would be a very interesting solution, though, if I could confirm there's such a recorder with a TBC as good or better than the older Panasonic models. But, as you state, it will open up a new can of worms. Not least of which is that my only desktop computer is an old Mac G4. Works great with the DV card, but I'm guessing not so much with capturing lossless from an HDMI card. Think I'll just have to live with the limitations of an extra analog conversion and DV capturing. Even a DV ouput on a DVD recorder would help me keep a fully digital path, but all models I've seen with DV are input-only.

My research has pretty much landed me on trying to acquire a European model Panasonic DMR-ES10. Price, even when adding overseas shipping looks to be within my budget, but it'll be a matter of finding a UK seller to ship one to the US. For inquires into other models (before I settled on this one), I was 1 out of 4 in sellers agreeing to ship to US. 

I was just meaning that I'd prefer not to have to convert back to analog once the signal has been processed digitally by the DVD recorder. Not a big deal, I know, especially for my source material. And I guess it's no different than VCRs that use digital buffers for TBC. If a filter couldn't be found, I was actually considering buying an old European Panasonic DVD recorder. I'm just not sure which models carry this same type of TBC and I may have an issue with finder sellers that will ship them to the US. This might be my best option, so I'll be looking into it.

Shame there isn't a filter. Seems like it could be a pretty simple one. It would just need to examine where the picture edge of each line is and then nudge them into alignment. I'm not talking large amounts of adjustment. Much less than is needed for stabilization filters and such.

Are there any filters that do this? The videos are stable captures, but the edges of the frame will show some waving in parts. It's usually not noticeable in the actual picture until there's a straight object. I'm wondering if there is a filter that aligns the edges of each horizontal video line.

Now if I pass my SVHS vcr through my Panny E20 DVD recorder first, it's TBC creates a rock solid picture with no waves. Three problems. 1) The only ways to access this image are to output over s-video or burn a DVD. I don't like the idea of an added analog generation or the MPEG2 compression. 2) I have a number of PAL videos and the DVD recorder is NTSC only. 3) Won't help videos that are already captured.

Preferably would like a filter that works on Mac, possibly in FCP. 

Any luck capturing with your macbook pro? I have never been able to get this to work, save for one time a couple minutes. If I kept adjusting the plug, pulling partway out, I eventually would get a digital input signal. But usually for only seconds. I've tried this on 3 different mid-late 2007 macbook pro's and all the same deal. Maybe they just don't like the little adapter end I bought. Weird, because the digital output port works flawlessly with this adapter.

My current setup involves a G4 MDD tower, an Audiophile 9624 soundcard with digital coax input and an optical>coax adapter for my Panny laserdisc player. I've confirmed that this setup is not altering the digital signal. However, I am not always getting bit-for-bit accurate rips. A couple laserdiscs are not matching up when I compare two captures. Other LDs were 100% identical. The one that has me pulling my hair out right now is not giving two captures that even come close to matching. A canceling out leaves behind a lot of static and clicks. I could get over the fact that the capture's aren't bit-identical if I weren't able to hear some random clicks when listening to the audio. I would figure it's the LD's fault, but this is a Japanese import that plays flawless video. No visual signs of rot. The whole reason I sold my previous player was to buy one with digital audio output. The only remaining LDs I have that aren't on DVD are music titles and I was planning to transfer these to digital, capturing the digital audio signal. This worked perfectly on 2 discs and is giving me problems on two discs. My next step may be to try and clean the player's lens. I have very little faith that will change anything, but I have no idea how and where this player was being stored, so maybe it's full of dust.

Btw, if anyone has these LDs and could do a bit-perfect digital audio capture for me, they would be returning some of my sanity:

Lou Reed: The New York Album

Lou Reed: Magic and Loss In Concert

_,,,^..^,,,_ said:

rnranimal said:

This is the one I like best. Do you have the Mos Eisley clip done this way?

nope... but because you asked, here you are:

http://www.sendspace.com/file/h2tmdw

don't forget to post what do you think about...

Thanks. I'm seeing a bit of the cartoony look and prefer the non-NR version. However, I just watched the new version and like that one best.

_,,,^..^,,,_ said:

Alderaan destruction test clip, 1920x816, 8000kbps, no sound, 20MB - MagiClean + MagicUp (the usual upscaler) + added grain:

http://www.sendspace.com/file/fibinm

Now, if someone is curious to see an upscaled version of a certain scene, post your request here - just keep it short, max 500 frames, as the processing rate is a "whopping" 1fps... you could also use my PAL GOUT frame data reference.

 

 

This is the one I like best. Do you have the Mos Eisley clip done this way?

I recently purchased a Panasonic LX-600. I wanted a machine with digital audio out and without CLV smear. I was considering the LX-900, but read there was an agc bug on some of them. Since I wasn't sure how to go about finding one confirmed to not suffer from the issue, I went with an LX-600. I haven't played around with it much, but it looks good and I can confirm no CLV smear.

Is there a way to do this?

_,,,^..^,,,_ said:

rnranimal said:

...Then I tried a 2 two-sided LDs and on each one, side one recorded fine, but side two on each had numerous samples which didn't match up.

The laser lens has different tracking settings for each side, so (for your player, as one of mine) when you play side "A" you have no problems, while playing side "B" there are problems (quite surely tracking issue).

If you use the player only to capture, you should not use the autoreverse, but play each laserdisc side on side "A" - when finished to capture the first side, just eject the disc, manually reverse it, and play the other side on side "A" again.

The thing is, I get the same results whether I use auto-reverse or not. It's always side 1 of both discs that recorded perfectly and side 2 which has inconsistencies. I'm guessing there has to be a problem with the discs, but I've looked closely at them and see no damage to the surface or the foil. Or maybe my player isn't so good at properly reproducing the digital audio track. Either way, it's a shame as I basically bought this player just to capture digital audio tracks. However, my Pioneer player has the CLV smear and this Panny does not, so I'll be looking into re-transferring the video if I can get a better picture.

got a novus pack with 1,2,3. can you recommend a certain cloth? everything i have is leaving hairlines.

I'm currently doing this and running into trouble. Not going as smoothly as I hoped. I have captured 2 one-sided LDs without problems. I captured them twice and compared. They matched. Then I tried a 2 two-sided LDs and on each one, side one recorded fine, but side two on each had numerous samples which didn't match up. Mostly in the first 5-10 mins with a few later on. I cleaned the discs, but it made no difference. Both are concert LDs, one Japanese and the other USA.

My setup is:

Panasonic LX-600 optical output > optical to coaxial converter > Audiophile 2496 card in a G4 MDD running Tiger.

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to get some Novus 1 & 2.

How sensitive to the disc's surface cleanliness is playback, compared to CDs & DVDs? Some of my laserdiscs play back with various specks (not actual rot). I know that's common for laserdisc, but was wondering if that's something that can be improved by cleaning the disc. My discs mostly look fine, but aren't cleaned to a shine. I'm always afraid of marking up the surface by trying to clean it, so I've always just played them as they are. But I'm starting to transfer some to digital now and wonder if a cleaning is in order. 

I just picked up a laserdisc player with optical output so that I can get the PCM tracks digitally recorded to my computer. I have a 2007 Macbook Pro, which is supposed to have an analog/digital audio input, but I am getting no signal as a digital input. I have confirmed the optical out is working on the player, I have confirmed the optical cable is good and have even used it to output a digital signal from the Macbook Pro. I've actually even tried the digital input on 2 Macbook Pros and neither get a signal. I also have a MDD G4 tower with an Audiophile 2496 card, but that only does digital coax input. Any help would be appreciated. As a backup, does anyone know of a cheap optical input for either the Macbook Pro or G4 tower?