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.: Moth3r's PAL DVD project :. — Page 3

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Moth3r,

I've been looking at some of your caps on Zion's website and yours seem to be at an odd aspect ratio, their is also info missing at the top and bottom of the picture compared to the other caps. It is the OOT your capturing is it??
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Yes I've also noticed that this source seems to be slightly more cropped than the NTSC versions, particulaly to the bottom. If you do the calcs the aspect ratio is actually 2.4:1 instead of 2.35:1.

Also bear in mind that pixel-for-pixel, non-anamorphic PAL is closest to the "natural" aspect ratio; not stretched as much as anamorphic NTSC and not squashed like non-anamorphic NTSC. It will look different to the other shots.

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The aspect ratio of panavision anamorphic is actually wider than 2.35:1
The 2.35 number became so popular because it was an atempt to standardize the
anamorphic format (different anamorphic systems have sligtly different ratios), so it
was taken as the ratio of the crop used in cinemas and in DVD transfers.
Cinema projectors allso crop the image a bit with masks.

The image is usually cropped to hide splices if they appear too obvious in the negative.
It allso reduces the "vignette" effect.

I have a scan of the original negative from Alien (1979, panavision gold, same system as SW) right here,
and I have measured the ratio of the original image.
The left edge of the frame (which is reserved for soundtrack) has a slight fade to black rather than
a clear black edge. The actuall image details are visible up to 2.44:1 (after that it is all black, reserved for soundtrack)
But if you cut out the soft fade-to-black edge area (and you have to cut it for transfers) you end up with
2.39:1 which is the real aspect ratio for panavision anamorphic systems.










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After saying I was going to leave the video settings as they were, I've since found out that if I reduce the contrast a little I can increase the colour saturation without clipping the strong reds.

I guess I didn't realise how washed out my version looked until I compared the skin tone in Shot 4 to the others. (But I feel that some versions, e.g. DrGonzo, may actually be over saturated.)

Updated screenshots coming soon...

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I think some PAL laserdiscs had colourbars and test tones at the very end of the discs, (after the credits etc.) Might be worth investigating to use as a reference?

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Laserman:
You are right, apparantly Jason and the Argonauts PAL release had 30 seconds of test signal at the end.

There is also a service test disc you can get from Pioneer which is to used in conjunction with an oscilloscope - something I know Karyudo is looking into.

---

Anyway, on the progress front, I've just installed a new 80GB hard drive, so I can get started on this project for real now...

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"I've just installed a new 80GB hard drive"

That's it? I hope you are using Huffy.

<span class=“Italics”>MeBeJedi: Sadly, I believe the prequels are beyond repair.
<span class=“Bold”>JediRandy: They’re certainly beyond any repair you’re capable of making.</span></span>

<span class=“Italics”>MeBeJedi: You aren’t one of us.
<span class=“Bold”>Go-Mer-Tonic: I can’t say I find that very disappointing.</span></span>

<span class=“Italics”>JediRandy: I won’t suck as much as a fan edit.</span>

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I am using huffy actually, but what I should have said is "I've just installed another 80GB hard drive"

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Let me see... one, two... three... four. Five? Yeah, I think that's right. I've got five hard drives connected. I believe one is just 80GB, three are 120GB, and one's 160GB.

Half a TB, and still I run out of space. Using HuffYUV and TooT efficiently sucks back free space like you wouldn't believe. So does keeping the results of failed experiments, and things you know are obsolete but haven't had time to go back and fix.

The next drive I buy (and it shouldn't be for a while, I hope) will be 200GB or better. Yikes. I remember my first IBM clone: a 286, which had a 20MB hard drive!

Really, two 80GB drives should be ample. But to paraphrase whoever it was (the Duchess of Windsor?), you can never be too rich or have too much drive space.
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"So does keeping the results of failed experiments, and things you know are obsolete but haven't had time to go back and fix."

I have 930 GBs (almost a TB,) and I'm going to need more if I want to finish the ESB and ROTJ X0 projects. In addition to the "failed projects" that you mentioned, I also have a buttload of home movies to finish putting on DVD, and some porn than accidentally made it's way to my hard drive (love those midgets! )

In time, I hope to purchase a 250 or better online in Australia, since it would be less than the price of buying one here and shipping it to Laserman.

<span class=“Italics”>MeBeJedi: Sadly, I believe the prequels are beyond repair.
<span class=“Bold”>JediRandy: They’re certainly beyond any repair you’re capable of making.</span></span>

<span class=“Italics”>MeBeJedi: You aren’t one of us.
<span class=“Bold”>Go-Mer-Tonic: I can’t say I find that very disappointing.</span></span>

<span class=“Italics”>JediRandy: I won’t suck as much as a fan edit.</span>

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Well, the RAW X0 transfers are 80GB PER MOVIE, so HD space becomes a problem. (You will need 3-4 times the space of the capture to do full blown editing and corrections)
You need 250GB just for the raw captures, then space to edit them, and then to transcode the final results down to DVD etc. I am using up near on a terrabyte on just the X0 project basically.
I then have 20GB of software in current use as well, and about 400GB of video of my kid and that sort of stuff, that really can't be deleted, and gawd knows how much other stuff that *could* be deleted if only I could get my arse into gear to try and sort/catalogue/backup and remove it.
So the end result is I have a terrabyte in one PC that has almost no free space, 800GB in another that has about 60GB free, and a shelf with various hard drives on it that I need to go through, a 20GB drive in my Xbox that is now being used to temporarily store and playback the home movies... So if anyone comes to my house with a degaussing wand, I am in serious trouble...
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Originally posted by: MeBeJedi
In addition to the "failed projects" that you mentioned, I also have a buttload of home movies to finish putting on DVD, and some porn than accidentally made it's way to my hard drive (love those midgets! )
Damn man, you stole my midget porn? I want it back. Midgets may be small but that stuff don't fit onto just one HDD!
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I would like to remind everyone that "DanielB" has chased off Laserman and Zion and should be ignored and denied ANY copies resulting from any projects developed.
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Technically, he shouldn't even want them, if we are to take his ranting seriously.

<span class=“Italics”>MeBeJedi: Sadly, I believe the prequels are beyond repair.
<span class=“Bold”>JediRandy: They’re certainly beyond any repair you’re capable of making.</span></span>

<span class=“Italics”>MeBeJedi: You aren’t one of us.
<span class=“Bold”>Go-Mer-Tonic: I can’t say I find that very disappointing.</span></span>

<span class=“Italics”>JediRandy: I won’t suck as much as a fan edit.</span>

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Well, maintaining lip sync with a different audio source proved to be harder than I thought. Finally, after some 160,000 frames of video, I think I've got it.

Here's a quick and dirty XviD sample.

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Twelve people downloaded this and no-one has noticed that the left and right audio channels were the wrong way round? Tsk, come on guys!

(It wasn't a deliberate creative decision either, to be honest I don't know how it happened - I assume I connected the red and white plugs up correctly, maybe my SCART adapter is wired backwards.)

Anyway, I authored a short 1m 30s sample to a DVD+RW last night to check compatibility with my DVD player, and I was very happy with the quality on a 28" widescreen CRT TV.

That's the good news. The bad news: I estimate it's going to take about 60 hours to do a 4-pass encode on this sucker...

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Update:
Now implemented a scratch filter to remove the worst of the "line drops" from the laserdisc transfer. Appears to have worked well, and in watching the new encode it doesn't look like it's adversely affected any other areas of the picture.
Unfortunately the release of this DVD has been delayed becaue I've now noticed that the audio is slightly out of sync in some areas. I didn't notice it before because the two areas I used for samples had the audio spot on. It's only very slightly out but it is noticeable and it bugs me, so it needs fixing.

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I don't recall if you ever considered making an NTSC version of your transfer, but I thought you would be interested in this link regardless. New PAL to NTSC method

<span class=“Italics”>MeBeJedi: Sadly, I believe the prequels are beyond repair.
<span class=“Bold”>JediRandy: They’re certainly beyond any repair you’re capable of making.</span></span>

<span class=“Italics”>MeBeJedi: You aren’t one of us.
<span class=“Bold”>Go-Mer-Tonic: I can’t say I find that very disappointing.</span></span>

<span class=“Italics”>JediRandy: I won’t suck as much as a fan edit.</span>

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Originally posted by: MeBeJedi
I don't recall if you ever considered making an NTSC version of your transfer, but I thought you would be interested in this link regardless. New PAL to NTSC method


Yes, please consider this! I for one am blown away at the screen caps you've posted and would love to be able to own a copy here in the States!
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I wasn't considering doing an NTSC version.

In theory it'd be easy to change the script to assume 23.976 fps instead of 25 fps and correct the vertical resolution for 16:9 NTSC. However, that picture that Laserman posted (here), showing how the X0 leaves the 925 standing in terms of quality, makes it pointless to do an NTSC version; there will be a better version available soon anyway. (I'd still like to investigate using a 2950 with a SweetSpot card, though, to see how that compares).

Yeah the screencaps look good - not flawless, but acceptable to my eyes - but that's no good if I can't get the audio sync spot on.

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I'm not sure what you mean by "line drops", but are you sure you want to use a scratch filter ? They always lose something, just like noise reduction... If you think it's essential, would you consider just using it selectively on the worst areas ?
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Here's an example:
http://img91.exs.cx/img91/2172/linedrop7uc.jpg

In theory at least, DeScratch leaves the picture untouched unless it actually detects a problem that needs fixing. I've set the theshold so that it should only trigger when there's a bright line across the whole screen, as in the frame above. I think it's working as it should.

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Filtered frame:

http://img39.exs.cx/img39/6518/image14cg.jpg

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That looks pretty good ( and very nice to remove the fault ) - have you checked it in scenes with (eg.) blaster fire etc ?