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Star Wars GOUT in HD using super resolution algorithm (* unfinished project *) — Page 20

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@ zee944

I agree that it's useful to compare different methods. I've stated I was interested in comparing super resolution to the Team Blu upscale since before the start of our discussion. The reason I was defensive is, because you claimed you could achieve the same result with sharpening and denoising, without anything to subtantiate that claim. Your upscale example is interesting, but not meaningful to the discussion, because we cannot compare the result to super resolution. The fact that details are enhanced is great, but we don't know super resolution would retrieve the same details. The methods may be complementary and retrieve different bits of information. I never stated super resolution is superior in every way to other methods, only that super resolution, when it comes to retrieving lost details, generally performs much better than most other methods, as is evident from scientific literature. However, there are other aspects to upscaling that are equally important, such as aliasing, artifacts, etc. The weaknesses of super resolution have also been discussed in this thread, and I've tried to adress them in the best way possible.

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 (Edited)

Since were putting up screenshots again, here are two more for SRV8 ;-).

http://screenshotcomparison.com/comparison/125700

http://screenshotcomparison.com/comparison/125705

This weekend I will post an update of the 10 min video sample for SRV8. More video samples will follow after that, and of course the release of Star Wars.

If any of the Team Blu members are watching and willing to provide some screenshots they think are interesting for comparison, post them here or send me a PM, and I will post them.  

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You guys should work together and scene by scene each of you post your best effort (and of course get the aspect ratio in agreement with each other) and then choose which version is best for each scene.  If you don't agree, then let us choose :-).  In my opinion the jaggies are totally distracting, so whenever there are jaggies, do what it takes to get rid of them (maybe do a mask of the problem areas and mix two versions in the same frames).  Also, waxy smooth and glossy is not good either.  Over-sharpened with halos is bad too.

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I leave the task to DrDre, but sometimes I like to post my own comparison, just to spur him to do his best! (^^,)

About AR: I love to have as much picture as possible, and I hope DrDre will change his mind, and use all the sides information, becase they are mean to BE there! On the height: 548px is the perfect size, as it's exactly 2x the GOUT, and gives better results and less artifacts on the vertical direction.

Sadly my projects are lost due to an HDD crash… 😦 | [Fundamental Collection] thread | blog.spoRv.com | fan preservation forum: fanres.com

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 (Edited)

If I can find a very good anti aliasing filter that doesn't destroy too much detail, I will definitely use it. Have any of you got any suggestions?

With respect to the AR, the correct AR is obtained by upscaling pixel ratio 704x480 (640x480 = 4:3 AR) to 1280x960. The only way to achieve this is to crop the 8 outermost pixels of the GOUT (the overscan). Any other value will result in an incorrect AR. By removing the black bars you thus obtain a 704x274 source that will scale to 1280x548 for 720p.   

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 (Edited)

Still don't get the connection between 704 and 640, when both 704 and 720 are valid DVD resolutions... may you explain your decision?

Sadly my projects are lost due to an HDD crash… 😦 | [Fundamental Collection] thread | blog.spoRv.com | fan preservation forum: fanres.com

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 (Edited)

Regarding AR, I agree with Laserdisc Master.  I have past experience in that area and 720x480 is normal.  The pixels are non-square but it doesn't make them wrong.  To put the issue to rest, do a three way screenshot comparison between the blu-ray and your two methods and see which one overlays on top of the blu-ray better.

Regarding AA, like I said, you could do a mask of the area where the AA is obvious and just lose the detail in those specific spots in the frame.  The detail is gone anyway if it is all jaggies.  Of course that is a ton more work than just a script and is probably not worth the effort given the other projects going on in parallel.

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I think the GOUT has a really funky AR, and the way it was authored is not indicative of the true 2.35.1 AR. Some side pixels must be removed to achieve a correct AR, and to avoid stretching.

I'm pretty sure DrDre answered a similar question earlier. Check back a few pages.

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 (Edited)

The standard for NTSC is that the 8 outermost pixels should be blank and are meant for cropping and not be displayed. The centre 704 pixels contains the video and determine the AR. These are displayed as 640x480 square pixels for a 4:3 AR. So if you remove the black bars and rescale the GOUT to it's correct AR, you get a 640x274 video with an AR of 2.34:1. If you then upscale by a factor of 2, you have a video of 1280x548. Now as you have noticed the blank areas of the GOUT are not entirely blank. They contain video. However if you were to upscale the 714x274 video to 1280x548 (the left 4 pixels and the right 2 pixels are blank for Star Wars) you would get the wrong AR, since the true AR is determined by the centre 704 pixels, not 714 pixels. So I did what was necessary to keep the correct AR and that is the crop the video to 704x274 and upscale to 1280x548. 

It was CatBus who provided this information thankfully. So all credit should go to him. I didn't know about this, but was struggling with getting the correct AR.

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Letterboxing, so glad we are done with those days.

Still a few movies that are held back by it though. True Lies and The Abyss come to mind. But the GOUT is by far the most famous, and detested.

Must...resist...rant... :P

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DrDre, I'll be glad if you would like to take some time to write an article about the SuperResolution method on fanres! You have certain more knowledge about it than me, and it will be a great thing to have an essay, written by someone who actually uses it, and not from a software house... thanks in advance!

Sadly my projects are lost due to an HDD crash… 😦 | [Fundamental Collection] thread | blog.spoRv.com | fan preservation forum: fanres.com

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@ Laserdisc Master

Sure, I'll write an article on fanres this weekend. :-)

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That's great, thanks a lot; community will be happy to read it - me too, of course!

Sadly my projects are lost due to an HDD crash… 😦 | [Fundamental Collection] thread | blog.spoRv.com | fan preservation forum: fanres.com

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DrDre, I understand what you are saying, believe me. You may have achieved the nearly correct aspect ratio in terms of the pixels, but it is possible that you may not have achieved the correct stretching of the image either vertically or horizontally.  The only way to really know is to check it vs. the Blu-ray which most likely is correct.  If people are fatter or skinnier or shorter or taller than the blu-ray, then it is not correct, regardless of the aspect ratio of the pixels.  I was working on restoring the Star Wars Special Edition trailer from 35mm film and got a lot of it done.  It was up to ME how tightly I cropped it and what aspect ratio of pixels I chose.  In terms of the AR of the pixels I chose 2.35:1, but that doesn't mean I had to.  There was some of the picture getting cropped on the edges so the corners would not be rounded and have part of the film edges showing. 

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thorr said:

[...] check it vs. the Blu-ray which most likely is correct.
LOL

However, in practice you must take into account the “fuckwit factor”. Just talk to Darth Mallwalker…
-Moth3r

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DrDre said:

It was CatBus who provided this information thankfully. So all credit should go to him. I didn't know about this, but was struggling with getting the correct AR.

This will get you the AR that the people who made the GOUT (or more accurately, the Definitive Collection Laserdisc) intended for that video release to have.  What relation that has to the actual film's AR is a matter of debate.

If you're aiming for "just the GOUT without extra fix-ups" then what you've done is right.  If you're actually aiming for correct, I think you should refer to another reference, although I'd try to use footage from -1, rather than the Blu-rays for that AR reference.

Project Threepio (Star Wars OOT subtitles)

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If 704 is related to 640, then 640/2.35=272... if you have a picture 274 pixel height, then 274x2.35=643.9

So 704/640=1.1 then 643.9x1.1=708.29 - that is (a bit) nearer to 712 than 704... (^^,) - so, at least you should crop at 708 than 704.

Also, dicrepancy is tiny, so I'd prefer to have a really small error in aspect ratio, retaining more picture, than having a "right" aspect ration, losing some details that could be precious - as much as a little bit than 1% could be considered precious, of course!

Sadly my projects are lost due to an HDD crash… 😦 | [Fundamental Collection] thread | blog.spoRv.com | fan preservation forum: fanres.com

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 (Edited)

DrDre said:

The standard for NTSC is that the 8 outermost pixels should be blank and are meant for cropping and not be displayed. The centre 704 pixels contains the video and determine the AR. These are displayed as 640x480 square pixels for a 4:3 AR. So if you remove the black bars and rescale the GOUT to it's correct AR, you get a 640x274 video with an AR of 2.34:1. If you then upscale by a factor of 2, you have a video of 1280x548. Now as you have noticed the blank areas of the GOUT are not entirely blank. They contain video. However if you were to upscale the 714x274 video to 1280x548 (the left 4 pixels and the right 2 pixels are blank for Star Wars) you would get the wrong AR, since the true AR is determined by the centre 704 pixels, not 714 pixels. So I did what was necessary to keep the correct AR and that is the crop the video to 704x274 and upscale to 1280x548.

This all assumes a DVD properly mastered to the true "Blue Book" (DVD Forum) specification.

Cropping a D-1 master from 720x486 to 720x480 and dumping to DVD (as is the case with the GOUT) does not result in an up-to-spec DVD.

D-1 PAR is retained, for instance, and is not 640/704≈0.9091 as is assumed here.

The active picture area for D-1 is 710.85 with a PAR of 4320:4739≈0.9116. The closest digital approximation of this is obtained via rounding up to 711 and slightly modifying the PAR to 72:79≈0.9114.

Notice how 711*72/79=648 and 648/486=4/3. Yes, that's = here, not ≈.

NTSC GOUT has 712 active pixels horizontally (most D-1 machines do 712 rather than 711 to make 4:2:2 work). Where do you see 714?

Check out: http://xpt.sourceforge.net/techdocs/media/video/dvd/dvd04-DVDAuthoringSpecwise/ar01s02.html

A picture is worth a thousand words. Post 102 is worth more.

I’m late to the party, but I think this is the best song. Enjoy!

—Teams Jetrell Fo 1, Jetrell Fo 2, and Jetrell Fo 3

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AntcuFaalb said:

Cropping a D-1 master from 720x486 to 720x480 and dumping to DVD (as is the case with the GOUT) does not result in an up-to-spec DVD.

I think it's fairer to say you just end up with a distorted AR than an out-of-spec DVD, but I know what you mean.  The distortion is baked in.

I think that puts a point on the question of what exactly this project is doing--a warts-and-all GOUT fixup (in which case distorted AR might be preserved), or something more akin to the actual theatrical prints (in which case they may want to skip right past the D1 master--which might have its own issues--and go to a theatrical print as the reference)

Project Threepio (Star Wars OOT subtitles)

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CatBus said:

AntcuFaalb said:

Cropping a D-1 master from 720x486 to 720x480 and dumping to DVD (as is the case with the GOUT) does not result in an up-to-spec DVD.

I think it's fairer to say you just end up with a distorted AR than an out-of-spec DVD, but I know what you mean.  The distortion is baked in.

Agreed.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Post 102 is worth more.

I’m late to the party, but I think this is the best song. Enjoy!

—Teams Jetrell Fo 1, Jetrell Fo 2, and Jetrell Fo 3

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 (Edited)

CatBus said:

I think that puts a point on the question of what exactly this project is doing--a warts-and-all GOUT fixup (in which case distorted AR might be preserved), or something more akin to the actual theatrical prints (in which case they may want to skip right past the D1 master--which might have its own issues--and go to a theatrical print as the reference)

Are we sure the AR is truly distorted? I think we should make a distinction in this circumstance between distortion and cropping.

The GOUT is only missing 2 scanlines to make it a proper 2.35:1 release (648x274 at 1:1 PAR rather than 648x276 at 1:1 PAR).

A distortion in this context would imply that a circle drawn on the film (after applying an anamorphic lens) would not be a circle in the GOUT after PAR correction and I'm just not sure that that's the case.

The easiest solution to this would be to grab a frame from the film, apply anamorphic stretch, downscale to get it close to GOUT, get the cropping close, and then apply an image registration algorithm to spatially align the two images.

I'll grab a frame from our 35mm IB scan tonight. Do you have any particular frame in mind? I have reels 2-6 currently.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Post 102 is worth more.

I’m late to the party, but I think this is the best song. Enjoy!

—Teams Jetrell Fo 1, Jetrell Fo 2, and Jetrell Fo 3

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AntcuFaalb said:

NTSC GOUT has 712 active pixels horizontally (most D-1 machines do 712 rather than 711 to make 4:2:2 work). Where do you see 714?

Check out: http://xpt.sourceforge.net/techdocs/media/video/dvd/dvd04-DVDAuthoringSpecwise/ar01s02.html

Great article - that I read years ago, but completely forgot to bookmark...

Now, you are *forced* (in a Star Wars way, of course) to write an article about aspect ratio on fanres! (^^,)

Sadly my projects are lost due to an HDD crash… 😦 | [Fundamental Collection] thread | blog.spoRv.com | fan preservation forum: fanres.com

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 (Edited)

AntcuFaalb said:

I'll grab a frame from our 35mm IB scan tonight. Do you have any particular frame in mind? I have reels 2-6 currently.

Probably any large object with high contrast at the edges, sharply defined.  That way when you're counting pixels, there's less error.

I'd say a Vader closeup in the Tantive IV corridor should be good.  Well-lit, sharp, black and white.

This is the way to get an absolutely correct AR, and thanks for the resources.

Project Threepio (Star Wars OOT subtitles)

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Darth Mallwalker said:

thorr said:

[...] check it vs. the Blu-ray which most likely is correct.

LOL

 LOL - agreed.  :-)  I only mentioned it because it is the easiest (cough, somewhat high quality, cough) source to check.  A properly scanned film frame properly anamorphically stretched is your best bet but harder to come by.