As for the colors, would it be a idea to use Dr. Dre’s Color Matching tool for color correction?
I just color-corrected a screenshot of the print using the Laserdisc as a reference, and got a very good result. However, I’m not sure if it works the same when correcting entire scenes.
35mm:
-(35mm-Revival)-mkv-snapshot-00-23-45-2026-05-07-20-51-25.jpg)
Laserdisc:
Corrected 35mm:
-(35mm-Revival)-mkv-snapshot-00-23-45-2026-05-07-20-51-25.jpg)
As for the colors, would it be a idea to use Dr. Dre’s Color Matching tool for color correction?
I just color-corrected a screenshot of the print using the Laserdisc as a reference, and got a very good result. However, I’m not sure if it works the same when correcting entire scenes.
35mm:
Laserdisc:
Corrected 35mm:
That looks cool! Though to be fair, this software can only do every single image, not an entire video file synced to a frame complete reference footage. I did compare my captured LaserDisc footage to my regrade and it looks great. The grading honestly reminds me of the Japanese CLV and UK LaserDiscs, probably because the US LD has a desaturated red tint on some shots. The LaserDisc capture you got has the brightness set too high, so this is why I used the THX WOW! Laserdisc to properly calibrate the brightness to prevent crushed whites. Here’s my grade here in case you’re curious
As for the colors, would it be a idea to use Dr. Dre’s Color Matching tool for color correction?
I just color-corrected a screenshot of the print using the Laserdisc as a reference, and got a very good result. However, I’m not sure if it works the same when correcting entire scenes.
35mm:
Laserdisc:
Corrected 35mm:
That looks cool! Though to be fair, this software can only do every single image, not an entire video file synced to a frame complete reference footage. I did compare my captured LaserDisc footage to my regrade and it looks great. The grading honestly reminds me of the Japanese CLV and UK LaserDiscs, probably because the US LD has a desaturated red tint on some shots. The LaserDisc capture you got has the brightness set too high, so this is why I used the THX WOW! Laserdisc to properly calibrate the brightness to prevent crushed whites. Here’s my grade here in case you’re curious
I did a color grading myself of the print (with additional doctoring to the contrast), and this looks almost exactly like the grading I did, cool that we both got close to what it looked like in theaters since the print is faded a little! Nice work! (I used the laserdisc and the theater bootleg for reference as well.)
That looks cool! Though to be fair, this software can only do every single image, not an entire video file synced to a frame complete reference footage. I did compare my captured LaserDisc footage to my regrade and it looks great. The grading honestly reminds me of the Japanese CLV and UK LaserDiscs, probably because the US LD has a desaturated red tint on some shots. The LaserDisc capture you got has the brightness set too high, so this is why I used the THX WOW! Laserdisc to properly calibrate the brightness to prevent crushed whites. Here’s my grade here in case you’re curious
Your grade definitely looks better!
Yes, I realized that the tool probably isn’t suitable for directly correcting an entire synchronized video file, but I think it could still be useful for creating LUTs based on matched individual frames, because the tool can create LUTs based on matches. For example, you could match a few representative shots against the LaserDisc or another reference and then generate LUTs from those matches.
Perhaps separate LUTs could be created for individual film reels or even for specific scenes/shots if the color fading varies significantly. Of course, that would only be truly useful if the correction works on other scenes as well, and not just on a single still image.
That looks cool! Though to be fair, this software can only do every single image, not an entire video file synced to a frame complete reference footage. I did compare my captured LaserDisc footage to my regrade and it looks great. The grading honestly reminds me of the Japanese CLV and UK LaserDiscs, probably because the US LD has a desaturated red tint on some shots. The LaserDisc capture you got has the brightness set too high, so this is why I used the THX WOW! Laserdisc to properly calibrate the brightness to prevent crushed whites. Here’s my grade here in case you’re curious
Your grade definitely looks better!
Yes, I realized that the tool probably isn’t suitable for directly correcting an entire synchronized video file, but I think it could still be useful for creating LUTs based on matched individual frames, because the tool can create LUTs based on matches. For example, you could match a few representative shots against the LaserDisc or another reference and then generate LUTs from those matches.
Perhaps separate LUTs could be created for individual film reels or even for specific scenes/shots if the color fading varies significantly. Of course, that would only be truly useful if the correction works on other scenes as well, and not just on a single still image.
Yours did miss out on a few artifacts that Sam’s has, for example look at the shadows on the wall behind them; soft, steady gradient on yours, weird middle stripe of purple on Sam’s.
Also, yes, for film-based projects, reel by reel corrections are the best way to go imo.
I’m just here because I’m driving tonight.
Why are you using Handbrake to encode the 35mm at 160mbps HEVC?
Video
ID : 1
Format : HEVC
Format/Info : High Efficiency Video Coding
Format profile : Main@L5.1@High
Codec ID : V_MPEGH/ISO/HEVC
Duration : 1 h 20 min
Bit rate : 160 Mb/s
Writing library : libebml v1.4.5 + libmatroska v1.7.1 / HandBrake 1.9.1 2025021200
Using a lossless codec would produce the same bitrate at less compression.
Why are you using Handbrake to encode the 35mm at 160mbps HEVC?
Video
ID : 1
Format : HEVC
Format/Info : High Efficiency Video Coding
Format profile : Main@L5.1@High
Codec ID : V_MPEGH/ISO/HEVC
Duration : 1 h 20 min
Bit rate : 160 Mb/sWriting library : libebml v1.4.5 + libmatroska v1.7.1 / HandBrake 1.9.1 2025021200
Using a lossless codec would produce the same bitrate at less compression.
Let’s just say that it was because the lossless codecs I used, HuffYUV and FFV1, are bigger than HEVC. It’s also for compatibility reasons since I don’t think FFV1 would be compatible on Blu-ray players with USB playback. Also, it’s for the best for me since preserving much grain as possible is enough.
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Let’s just say that it was because the lossless codecs I used, HuffYUV and FFV1, are bigger than HEVC. It’s also for compatibility reasons since I don’t think FFV1 would be compatible on Blu-ray players with USB playback. Also, it’s for the best for me since preserving much grain as possible is enough.
So you’re using a worse codec because you’re trying to make it compatible with players that can’t even play that big of a file as is?
May I suggest learning how to use something like Hybrid for encoding?
Let’s just say that it was because the lossless codecs I used, HuffYUV and FFV1, are bigger than HEVC. It’s also for compatibility reasons since I don’t think FFV1 would be compatible on Blu-ray players with USB playback. Also, it’s for the best for me since preserving much grain as possible is enough.
So you’re using a worse codec because you’re trying to make it compatible with players that can’t even play that big of a file as is?
May I suggest learning how to use something like Hybrid for encoding?
I have tried Avidemux, but it’s the same result. So maybe I might check it out at some point.
Thanks so much Sam and to everyone who worked on this! It looks great and the german laserdisc audio is the icing on the cake for me 😃