Big Wednesday - 1978 - 7/10

John Milius’ overlooked ode to surfing and surf culture, of which he was a part.
Film split into various chapters, eras, as three young friends adjust to changing times, changing circumstances.
Milius’ voice is pronounced here, quite lyrical at times.
1962 - 1965 - 1968 - up until the early 70’s.
Vietnam, still raw and painful, knifes through relationships, though the focus remains on the waves.
Humans eddy along the stream of events, the once-admired become discarded.
Majestic photography! Not as crisp or detailed as current films, but with long takes one can observe how waves build up and break, and how seasoned riders can work the pipe as long as possible.