You keep straying off topic. The topic I keep addressing is to calibrate your monitor.
You have erroneously claimed that YCbCr is better, but that is just a different way of representing RGB color (allowing higher compression of the color and lower compression of the luma to give the illusion of a higher resolution image. It has nothing to do with the colors. That would be the bit encoding. In order to truly change the color space you have to switch from an RBG encoding to a CYM/CYMB encoding.
And HDR has nothing to do with color and everything to do with blacks and whites. With a backlit screen it is all about getting the black as dark as possible. OLED takes advantage of having 3 lights per pixel to achieve true black (as in no light at all for that pixel). The whites are just how bright the light can be. Again a feature of the display, not the source.
So the things you are citing as important are not really important at all. Not to a discussion about color correcting the original source material.
But let’s get back to what is wrong with the GOUT.
These are the stages of what film goes through for duplication. The exception is presentation prints which are generated directly from the negative, as are the dailies.
What you see on the interpositive is a general orange color. The image is lighter as well. Traces of this can be seen in the older home video of the OT. Things tend to be a touch orange and the contrast isn’t as high as it should be. This makes grays a touch red and skin tones a bit redder and blacks more gray. As you can see, this orange tint is reversed for the internegative and then canceled out on the final prints. For whatever reason, interpositives have often been used for telecines and a lot of telecines have this combination of orange and gray. In many shots in the OT, all teleciens look about the same. In others, they can be very different.
So to correct the GOUT to compensate for this trace of orange and gray, you really need a sample of what it should look like. Enter the Technicolor prints. Mike Verta was nice enough to post a sample of his scan. From that and the known green issues, I created a correction. Doing the same thing from frames of a different Technicolor print he acquired, DrDre did a correction. Technicolor is a CYM printing technique that doesn’t fade easily. Many old color movies exist for home viewing because a Techncolor print is available. There really is no other way to accurately find the original colors for A New Hope. By the time of the SE in 1997, the negative had faded badly and inconsistently and they used Lucas’s own Technicolor print to restore the colors for the SE. You have said you like the colors of the SE Telecine. That is all well and good, but those aren’t very reliable colors.
So either you rely on the Technicolor samples, or you do some research and see if you can find references that will help. I did both. I have read the research on the correct blue for R2. I have seen the parts with my own eyes to confirm it (the original units were more purple). I have studied flesh tones. I have extensive experience mixing paints for art and the correct way to make skin tones involves yellow and red to get the right peachy orange color. I have watched movies by the actors made at different times by different studios. There is a nice array of natural skin tones. Some are paler and pinker. Some are darker and tanner. Some are redder. Some places add to the red tone (our blood is red after all and the only way our skin is naturally not at least somewhat pinkish is if we are sick. Jaundice makes us yellow. What I see in your corrections (and in my early attempts) are people who should go see a doctor immediately for jaundice. One thing I did (and keep doing) is to compare my skin tone to others. Just in our office meetings I am presented with a nice variety of skin tones. When I keep those images in mind as I color correct, I have to keep the yellow to a minimum. Too much and the image is ruined and the people look sick. Too little and they all look sunburnt. And I found that Owen should look a bit singed in all his shots. Most of the humans on Tatooine should look like they’ve been in the sun. The people should be decidedly redder than the rocks (they didn’t film any of Tatooine at Red Rocks in Colorado after all) and the rocks should be a nice tan color.
And what I’ve found in all that research has led to my color correction and my near agreement with DrDre. I think he takes a bit too much red out of some shots. You take way too much red out and the DVD/HD/BR left too much yellow out.