towne32 said:
but also confused that you would spend money on it instead of an affordable BD burner. I think I’m still confused about the last part, if you go beyond the trial.)You’d be way better of DL’ing and burning Harmy’s old AVCHD versions, which were built from the ground up for DVD9’s. Even though they’re now completely obsolete relative to the standards of the BD releases, they’d still look better than what any cheap program would produce after quickly mashing down these newer releases to fit on DVD…
Yes, that’s another great point. You could always remove the main feature and burn the extras to a second AVCHD. But, with no disrespect to njvc, the quality of the video in the extras is not the selling point of the set, and some of them are already quite compressed.
Also, I find BD-Rs to be more reliable than DL DVD-Rs. Fewer write fails for me with BD. DVD-R tech is known for using shitty dye (I believe they are not expected to have the lifespan of even CD-Rs). It’s worth considering saving up for a BD burner, which can be as cheap as $65-80 bucks. But compared to spending cash on software for DVD-R burning, I think it’s a no brainer.
Make sure when you get a blank Blu-Ray disc, to get one that is marked as “HTL”. You don’t want “LTH” Blu-Ray discs, which are similar to CD-R’s DVD-R’s in quality and dyes used. HTL Blu-Ray discs will last a lot longer and have less burn errors. I recommend looking at Digistor or Verbatim DataLifePlus Blu-Rays.
A while back I picked up this Pioneer Blu-Ray burner. I wanted a slot loading one: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Computer/Computer+Drives/BDR-XS06