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Puggo Strikes Back! (Released) — Page 4

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Puggo - Jar Jar's Yoda said:

This sounds like a good way to go.  So now I have some questions...

In the past, I would use the anamorphic flag to have the player stretch the video horizontally.  So, not having worked with HD video before, is it the case that HD video doesn't use such a flag?

And if that's the case, then the entire horizontal stretch is done in software?  Any suggested tools that would do the best job at that?

Correct, there is no anamorphic flag with HD video.  You will need to do the horizontal stretch in software. 

I will let others chime in for what software might be best, but I like xvid4psp.  It will let you do any size you want.  It defaults to Lanczos resizing which people seem to like.  It will also crop for you (assuming the crop position is always the same) and I think it will let you add the black bars on top and bottom too if you want to do 1280x720p so that it is blu-ray compliant.  You should do your color corrections first before using xvid4psp (and your cropping if it moves around).  When you convert the file, try to keep the bit rate so that the final size is about 8GB.  Once the xvid file is made, you can use TSMuxer to convert it to blu-ray format.  When converting the file to blu-ray, it grows a bit so you don't want to make the original xvid file too big or it won't fit on a DVD-DL disc.

What software you can use depends on how you are doing your capture too.  What format are you saving the original images to?  A bunch of pictures, a lossless AVI, ...?  Avisynth is another way to go, but is not as easy to use.  I think xvid4psp uses Avisynth anyway.

Anyway, thanks!  I can't wait to see the final product!

Mike

 

Edit: Molly's post may be another possibility, but I am not sure if you can set an aspect ratio of 2.35:1 on whatever resolution and have it automatically stretch it out.  This would be even easier.  All you would need to do is crop it to the sides and top, set the aspect ratio, convert it to AVC-HD/H264/Xvid or whatever you want to call it and save to mkv, and that's it. 

This wouldn't be blu-ray compliant though so if people wanted to burn it to DVD-R and watch it on their blu-ray player, it wouldn't work.  The way I mentioned above might be better in this case (1280x720p).  If you need help with the settings in the Xvid4PSP software, I can try to help you, but I would need to know what format you are working with and maybe you could send me a very small sample of your original file(s), just so I could get the settings right.

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Puggo - Jar Jar's Yoda said:

thorr said:

Regarding the border, if you would, please just crop it to the top/bottom and sides of the frame leaving the curved edge on the corners alone.

I'll consider that.  It depends how "noisy" it is in those corners.  Sometimes they can be distracting if there's a lot of junk in them, or if the soft borders clash too noticeably with the sharp borders of the rest of the image.

Here is what it would look like with one of the sample frames at 1280x720p:

http://i54.tinypic.com/vwpy74.jpg

In my opinion it looks good enough already, but if you wanted to you could try adjusting the color of the black bars to roughly match the color of the corners and it wouldn't be as noticeable.  In my case I have a projector and have black masking for my screen so the white part of the screen is effectively 2.35:1.  I wouldn't notice the difference with the black bars and corners at all.

Here is a sample with the black bars matching the color of the right side corners:

http://i53.tinypic.com/2wq494h.jpg

The left side is more noticeable to me because they don't match the bars.  Maybe just making the black bars black would be the best route and the corners would just be part of the horizontal picture.

 

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With MKV, at least, you can set any aspect ratio you want (I believe it stores a "preferred display resolution").  x264 itself seems to support storing PAR or DAR as a fraction, and this is kept when muxing as an avi or mp4.  I have some 720x480/4:3 MP4s.  I'm not sure how good the software support for these features is though...MPlayer handles it fine and that's all I've used for the better part of a decade.

"Right now the coffees are doing their final work." (Airi, Masked Rider Den-o episode 1)

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Puggo - Jar Jar's Yoda said:

If you want to adjust the color, brightness, etc. please be careful not to wash out the brighter or darker areas.  It might be fine just to leave it as is and not adjust this at all, but you are obviously the best judge about that.

Definitely, I'm going to try and be extra careful throughout on this.  My goal is to make sure that everything that made it from the print to the raw cap, is retained in the final version.  Some color correction will be necessary, as it is pretty much impossible to find a single white balance on the camera that works on an entire reel.

I think white balance is very important. Parts of the Puggo Grande seem very 'blown out' (almost like too much light was being projected through the film?) as far as the whites are concerned, though I seem to remember you saying that was representative of the 16mm prints themselves. Those Empire caps look very very good indeed, and being as a quarter of the film is set on Hoth I think it's even more important to keep tabs on the white balance. As you said it's impossible to find a 'correct' balance throughout each reel so I guess this will fall into the 'eye balling' it category. I'd be tempted to try out a raw capture without any processing at all and see how that looks, otherwise one is altering the print. It's nice to preserve exactly how one would see this if projected, even though the temptation is there to keep tweaking the settings.

As others here have said, thank you so much for doing these transfers - you really are preserving an important part of the Star Wars universe and it's greatly appreciated indeed :)

- John

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Puggo - Jar Jar's Yoda said:

Nerfherder said:

Ditto. Even though the source material perhaps isn't in the best of condition every bit of resolution helps. I was watching the Puggo Grande on a 110" screen last week, upscaled via an HD 1080p Epson projector. Whilst it looks fab and REALLY gives one the feel of seeing it 'for real' again (ahh those worn prints of the early 80s!) the blocking/compression in having to squeeze it onto a DVD-5 and the encoders freaking out over all the film grain and dust/scratches etc is really quite apparent. If you're going to the time & trouble of scanning in a film, might as well push the boat out with the encoding to make it as 'perfect' as possible instead of possibly having to do another transfer further down the road...

By the way, I ran a test for reel 1 of Puggo Grande last week at full SD bitrate (which would fit on a DVD9)... it's hard to say if many people would notice any difference.  I was hard pressed to see any difference, but I think I saw some at the borders of horizon and sky in the desert scenes.

After I'm done with PSB, maybe I'll go back and make a HD upscaled version of PG.

It depends on how big the viewing screen is. On my laptop I didn't notice many compression artifacts, but on that 110" screen they were quite obvious. Encoders just hate constantly moving scenes, and I think those particular Star Wars 16mm prints are one of the worst examples out there with all the grain, dust, scratches and so on. It would be very cool indeed to have an HD upscaled version of the Puggo Grande to give those encoders room to encode every little spot and blemish without any artifacts - Thanks for considering it and I'll keep my fingers crossed ;)

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Nerfherder said:

I think white balance is very important. Parts of the Puggo Grande seem very 'blown out' (almost like too much light was being projected through the film?)

I think you may be confusing "white balance" with "brightness/contrast". White balance refers to shifting the color balance so that the things that are supposed to be white are actually white.  Actually, both things (white balance and brightness/contrast) are difficult to get accurately in a film capture.  Film has a much larger spread than video cameras of being able to reproduce detail in bright areas and dark areas, and so one is always balancing whether to favor the details in the dark areas or the bright areas. The blowout of some of the whites in PG had nothing to do with white balance, and was more due to my trying to get people's faces to look as good as I could.

I'd be tempted to try out a raw capture without any processing at all and see how that looks, otherwise one is altering the print. It's nice to preserve exactly how one would see this if projected, even though the temptation is there to keep tweaking the settings.

See, that's the problem. A telecine capture doesn't ever preserve exactly how one would see the film if projected, because of a myriad of factors. The range of colors you get on the video depends on how the film is illuminated (what type of light), how the lens settings respond to the lighting used, the white balance setting on the camera, etc. Cameras don't work the same as our eyes do. And if you find a setting that works on one scene, it generally doesn't work as well for other scenes... sometimes it's way off.  So, if you want it to look as close as possible to an actual viewing of the film, you HAVE to tweak it scene by scene in post.

"Close the blast doors!"
Puggo’s website | Rescuing Star Wars

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I would say this project is in VERY capable hands, it is not like Puggo has not done this before, I say you do what you think is right Puggo, I and I am sure a lot of others here will be VERY happy with whatever you end up doing, that said, good luck, can't wait to see it.

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Puggo - Jar Jar's Yoda said:

See, that's the problem. A telecine capture doesn't ever preserve exactly how one would see the film if projected, because of a myriad of factors. The range of colors you get on the video depends on how the film is illuminated (what type of light), how the lens settings respond to the lighting used, the white balance setting on the camera, etc. Cameras don't work the same as our eyes do. And if you find a setting that works on one scene, it generally doesn't work as well for other scenes... sometimes it's way off.  So, if you want it to look as close as possible to an actual viewing of the film, you HAVE to tweak it scene by scene in post.

Can you pause the capture and adjust the camera scene by scene?  Another idea would be to do multiple captures with different settings and take the best version of each scene before adjusting in post.  If any scenes are really bad to start with, do another capture.  I am not sure how hard this is to do, so I may be asking too much.  :)

Anyway, I agree with Dark Jedi and am only throwing ideas out there that may or may not help.  I am very excited about this project!

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Anyway, I agree with Dark Jedi and am only throwing ideas out there that may or may not help.  I am very excited about this project!

That goes for me as well - it's such a treat to be able to see a 16mm print of these films transferred by someone who cares. Much appreciated indeed! :)

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May I just say that I second the request for a version that keeps the rounded corners visible. I believe it is an insignificant price to pay to preserve the maximum image area. The extreme outer edges of the frame are worth preserving too :-)

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Video Collector said:

May I just say that I second the request for a version that keeps the rounded corners visible. I believe it is an insignificant price to pay to preserve the maximum image area. The extreme outer edges of the frame are worth preserving too :-)

If I do mask the corners, it would be with a rounded mask so as not to lose any information off the sides, nor off the top/bottom.  Don't worry, I certainly won't just chop it down to make square corners! The reason why I might ultimately chose to mask the corners with rounded borders, is that sometimes on the print those out-of-boundary areas can have all kinds of flickering distractions. Individual frames might look fine, but when in motion it can look worse.  I'll see what it looks like when I get to that point.  Thanks again for the suggestions!

"Close the blast doors!"
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thorr said:

Can you pause the capture and adjust the camera scene by scene?  Another idea would be to do multiple captures with different settings and take the best version of each scene before adjusting in post.

Yes that's what I do.  PG was pieced together out of 3 or 4 passes on each reel.  I'm actually not done making capture passes through ESB, and I'm not convinced that I even have the right camera placement yet for this print.

"Close the blast doors!"
Puggo’s website | Rescuing Star Wars

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dark_jedi said:

I would say this project is in VERY capable hands, it is not like Puggo has not done this before, I say you do what you think is right Puggo, I and I am sure a lot of others here will be VERY happy with whatever you end up doing, that said, good luck, can't wait to see it.

Actually, I greatly appreciate all the suggestions.  I would have screwed up the PG royally if not for the excellent suggestions I received.  And already I'm getting suggestions here that are changing the way I am planning to encode it (when I get to that point, which is likely a few months away).

"Close the blast doors!"
Puggo’s website | Rescuing Star Wars

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Let me explain the dilemma with respect to the corners:

The scans you have all seen (with the rounded corners) are with the camera placed at a slightly further distance than was used for the PG.  The pros of doing this are: (1) the side and top/bottom borders are more straight, and (2) the focus is slightly sharper throughout the image.  The cons are: (1) the cropped rounded corners.

It isn't possible for me to get a wider gate... the gate I am using was specially ordered, hand enlarged by Roger Evans for capturing scope films with the workprinter.  When I mentioned the rounded corners to Roger, his response was simply, "move the camera closer".  Thus the tradeoffs mentioned above.

The SW print used in PG was such that I was able to capture the entire frame without any cropping, and only a very minimal parallax that I worked around with the gradually curved border on the top/bottom.  I experimented with removing the parallax in software (there is an avisynth filter for it - I think it's called "barrel filter"), but the results were awful and I never bothered posting examples.

I haven't decided if I will use the same approach with PSB, or if I will accept the round corner croppings that you have already seen.  Maybe something halfway in between.  Once I decide, I'll make a mask that preserves as close to every bit of the captured image as possible.

"Close the blast doors!"
Puggo’s website | Rescuing Star Wars

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I'm with 'Video Collector' on the whole rounded edges issue, but I understand the issues you've outlined above. The aim of this is afterall to preserve the 16mm experience, and having those unique rounded edges there - to me - preserves that 'old skool' 16mm screening experience.

I got a real nostalgic kick from those screen shots you posted earlier Puggo. One of my fondest Star Wars memories was my 7th Birthday in June, 1980. I hadn't seen the film yet at that point (that treat was to be a Star Wars/Empire double bill later on in the month which just absolutely BLEW my mind at that age, and was the first time I went to the cinema also!). MY parents arranged for a guy to come around to my Birthday party with a 16mm projector. I seem to recall we watched a few cartoons, but the real treat was the trailer for Empire. I think we got him to screen it several times and we were all sitting their open mouthed especially during the few shots of the walkers! Ahhh good days!

So thanks for rekindling those precious memories with those still captures, not to mention the prospect of actually being able to own 16mm capture at some point! That little kid inside of me is still sitting there open mouthed at those shots some 30 years later ;)

- John

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Follow-up... it looks like the curved corners are part of the print, not the gate as I had presumed before.  That means they stay. :)

Just finished two more scans of reel 2.  Now back for some more scans of reel 3

"Close the blast doors!"
Puggo’s website | Rescuing Star Wars

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Thanks for all of the updates and info.  It's great to learn about this stuff.  Keep up the great work!!!  Yeah corners!!! ;-)

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By the way, I am also very excited about the prospect of the upscaled HD version of the PG.  Here is a sample pic to wet everyone's appetite.

http://i51.tinypic.com/116kw2h.jpg

 

:-)  :-)  :-)

 

Mike

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Here is a comparison between the current PG and the upscaled version.  I only did the horizontal stretch and left the vertical resolution as is (horizontally scaled to 1128x480 then cropped to the borders).  As you can see there is significant resolution to be gained.  The current PG is a bit squished vertically from where it should be, so there is another reason to redo it.  ;-)

http://i56.tinypic.com/jjlgzk.jpg

 

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thorr said:

The current PG is a bit squished vertically from where it should be, so there is another reason to redo it.  ;-)

Are you sure about that?  Several of us went back and forth on that many times to be sure.  The aspect ratio won't be exactly the same as the original film, because with 16mm there is significant cropping before the scope stretch, so you can't tell if it's right just by measuring the sides and calculating the ratio... you have to compare elements side by side with the GOUT.

"Close the blast doors!"
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I think thorr is correct about Grande being vertically squished, I noticed this when I looked at the screenshots of the alien subs to recreate them for the GOUT. But didn't understand why it was like that, sorry I didn't mention it earlier.

We want you to be aware that we have no plans—now or in the future—to restore the earlier versions. 

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Sorry about that.  I just compared it to the original and the PG does look pretty close to correct.  They chopped quite a bit off the bottom and a little off the top.  The good news is this means there is even more resolution there natively as long as you continue to do the horizontal stretch and never shrink the resolution vertically to fix the aspect ratio.  I tried stretching the raw uncropped frame to 1280x480 and it looks pretty close to correct.  It would need to be cropped from there then upscaled back to 1280.  It would be cool if you could get the camera in the exact spot so the raw capture was right on the edge of the frame so no cropping would be needed on the sides, but it sounds like it loses focus and causes the other problems you mentioned.  Maybe you could keep it placed in the same position as before, but zoom it in a bit.

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When I had to correct the aspect ratio of my ESB boot I used the 2004 DVD as a guide.

I superimposed a framegrab of my capture over the identical frame from the DVD in Photoshop. Then I resized the capture to fit exactly over the DVD, and noted the percentages shrunk.

I used those numbers for the resize (allowing for anamorphic squeeze as well). As you can see, my boot had more vertical information top and bottom.

 

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Puggo - Jar Jar's Yoda said:

Film has a much larger spread than video cameras of being able to reproduce detail in bright areas and dark areas, and so one is always balancing whether to favor the details in the dark areas or the bright areas. The blowout of some of the whites in PG had nothing to do with white balance, and was more due to my trying to get people's faces to look as good as I could.

 I finally got to watch the Puggo Grande and the whites do blow out a little bit, but I got some of the detail back when I dialed down the brightness in the program.

I might be way off the mark here, or you might already have considered this, but is there a way you could do like they do with HDR photography?Get one capture very bright, one very dark, one in the middle and layer them together?

I know you said you're already capturing at different settings, I didn't know if that's what you meant or not. But then again, trying to get them all to line up perfectly would probably take too long to do =/

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Asaki said:

I might be way off the mark here, or you might already have considered this, but is there a way you could do like they do with HDR photography?Get one capture very bright, one very dark, one in the middle and layer them together?

I know you said you're already capturing at different settings, I didn't know if that's what you meant or not. But then again, trying to get them all to line up perfectly would probably take too long to do =/

It would be fun to try, but I fear there would be too many slight variations in the centering of each frame, such that it would just make it look less sharp.

I actually have tried this technique with old video (I do 1/2" EIAJ as well), and while the results were promising, I ultimately was dissatisfied with the loss of sharpness.

So, anyone care to take the frames I posted, and do some investigation into the appropriate percentage of horizontal stretch to make the material match the ratio of the original movie?  I haven't even found a definitive definition of the horizontal percentage stretch for 16mm scope projection. And I wonder if it wouldn't just be more accurate to eyeball it against some GOUT frames.  I can do it of course, but some of you might do a more exact job than me.

"Close the blast doors!"
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