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.: LeeThorogood's Original Trilogy Replica Technicolor Project :. (Released) — Page 3

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dark_jedi said:



LeeThorogood said:


it was suggested in another <a href="http://originaltrilogy.com/forum/topic.cfm/GOUT-V3-Star-Wars-Trilogy-Info/post/477883/#TopicPost477883" target="_blank" title="originaltrilogy.com/forum/topic.cfm/GOUT-V3-Star-Wars-Trilogy-Info/post/477883/#TopicPost477883">thread</a> that the end result might look better if I upscale the GOUT to 2x Anamorphic PAL resolution first then apply the colour grading after which I can scale back down to Anamorphic PAL resolution.


Can you show a sample of where you placed and how you placed this in g-force's script, this double or triple upscaling before filtering?
My understanding of avisynth scripting is very limited and as my final output will be SD rather than HD I simply added the following code after the resize,crop,add borders line

########## upscaling
NNEDI3(dh=true).TurnLeft
NNEDI3(dh=true).TurnRight

For this project I am not using AviSynth to do the theatrical subtitles but if I was using AviSynth to do them then its my understanding I would need to put the above code after the subtitles section, effectively making this the last command in the script. I'm hoping that if I apply my colour grade to a larger frame size and then scale down that some of the colour artefacts I am seeing will become less apparent or disappear completely. Sorry I can't be more helpful. :(

Original Trilogy in Replica Technicolor Project
Star Wars PAL LaserDisc Project

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The resize, crop, addborders, is your final DVD resolution, are you sure you place that code after that line, this should be before your final sizing, not after, at least they way I am thinking, I thought you want to blow up the image, do all your shit to it, then bring it all back down, if that line is after, then you are doing all your shit to it, bringing to DVD resolution, then blowing it up.

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 (Edited)


dark_jedi said:
The resize, crop, addborders, is your final DVD resolution, are you sure you place that code after that line, this should be before your final sizing, not after, at least they way I am thinking, I thought you want to blow up the image, do all your shit to it, then bring it all back down, if that line is after, then you are doing all your shit to it, bringing to DVD resolution, then blowing it up.
Sorry I am not very good at explaining myself through the keyboard. :( Let me have another bash at explaining.

I know it was suggested that the clean-up G-Forces script performs could be improved by upscaling the video first then applying the clean-up. However I am not skilled or brave enough to start messing with G-Forces work any more then I already have. To be honest I am happy with the results it produces as is when finishing out to 576p (I know you would be finishing out to 480p ;)) That said I have noticed that applying my colour correction which is done to the lossless AVI AviSynth produces in third party software (Apple Color) at 576p creates some funky colour artefacts in places.

Now the colour artefacts problem may just be the GOUT being the turd that it is (Thanks George!) but I wanted to see if I could improve the results of the colour correction by adding the upscale commands which will make the video double the required size. Then I can import this double sized G-Force enhanced lossless AVI into my colour software, apply the colour correction, export this to my NLE perform any edits etc that are necessary and then scale down to 576p for export to DVD.

I suppose in a nutshell I am not looking to improve what G-Forces script already does but rather improve the end results of my colour correction. :)

Original Trilogy in Replica Technicolor Project
Star Wars PAL LaserDisc Project

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 (Edited)

In that case what you should do is change the output value of the script's resizing function, so that you have it at the desired editing resolution to start with rather than piling more scaling on top of what is already there.  You'd have to change the edge cropping and the borders added and so forth along with it, but it shouldn't be difficult to find the right values--if you're doubling the size of the entire image, then they should be doubled along with it, yes?  Then you can make another, much simpler script to scale it back down to dvd resolution during the encoding phase.

I don't know if this would affect the size and positioning of the subtitles, though.  Actually, if you're rendering a lossless intermediate file, you could probably leave out the subtitles from the initial processing, and add them to your resizing script for the encode, which would bypass any possible issues with that.

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Thanks for all the advice hairy_hen! :D I had always planned to optimise the way I did the up-scaling but for now just needed something quick that would allow me to run my colour tests. :)

dark_jedi I don't know how much you plan to mess with G-Forces script but if its any help I found the anti-aliasing section of the script isn't as effective if done after up-scaling but then as this section of the script increases the vertical resolution by 1.5 I guess it would make sense to incorporate it into the up-scaling process.

Original Trilogy in Replica Technicolor Project
Star Wars PAL LaserDisc Project

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 (Edited)

If you look at the script the anti-aliasing is done while it is upscaled, then followed by the resize, crop, add borders, not sure if I fully understand what you are saying.

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 (Edited)


G-Forces Stabilisation Script said:
########## anti-alias
NNEDI2(dh=true, field=0)
NNEDI2(dh=false,field=1)
The "dh=true" parameter is telling NNEDI2 to double the height of field0, which results in an overall increase of 1.5x the original frame height. So in actual fact the image does not get up-scaled until this point. ;) Then Spline16 scales up the horizontal slightly IIRC and scales down the vertical.

Like I said before I found when playing around the other day that the above anti-aliasing section needs to come before any up-scaling commands otherwise it doesn't work properly.

Original Trilogy in Replica Technicolor Project
Star Wars PAL LaserDisc Project

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Unfortunately, all of this script talk is still totally "greek" to me. 

It kinda makes me shy away from doing a full blown archive myself because it makes me realize that I actually understand very little about the creation process beyond the basic transfer of LD from analog to the digital domain.

Now I'm bummed out................

LOL 

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 (Edited)

I think I have settled on using the following code to produce a frame size of 2048 x 1152.

########## anti-alias & upscale
NNEDI2(dh=true, field=0)
NNEDI2(dh=false,field=1)
NNEDI3(dh=true).TurnLeft
NNEDI3(dh=true)
NNEDI3(dh=true).TurnRight

########## resize to 16x9 AR, remove sides, add borders
Spline16Resize(2090,940).Crop(24,32,-18,-32,align=true).AddBorders(0,138,0,138)
This does mean producing a new lossless AVI so as everything will probably take at least twice as long as before it could be another couple of weeks before Star Wars is finished. :(

Original Trilogy in Replica Technicolor Project
Star Wars PAL LaserDisc Project

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LeeThorogood said:  This does mean producing a new lossless AVI so as everything will probably take at least twice as long as before it could be another couple of weeks before Star Wars is finished. :(

 

If it means that higher quality will result, the delay will be more than worth it.  You seem to work quickly anyway.  Two weeks is nothing.   :-)

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I think they're too yellow/greenish. You can see a green glow in the first pic around R2's blue stripes.

And in the time of greatest despair, there shall come a savior, and he shall be known as the Son of the Suns.

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These just don't look right to me at all, I agree with LexX, color correcting sux, it is going to be hard to please everyone with this.

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At the risk of playing devil's advocate here, I personally think the colours look great now! Very VERY close to the colours from that Technicolor film print (which afterall was the intent of this project/thread) and also many film stills I have from various publications. I think the film did have a bit of a green tint towards it.

My only nit-pick is there seems to be rather a lot of DNR on that shot of R2 and 3PO in the corridor, but perhaps that's just bacause the screencap is fairly small?

I'd say keep the colours personally!

 

- John

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 (Edited)

I like the colors too.  They are meant to be vivid but I think they could be toned down a little.  I share the concern about the green around R2's blue stripes.  The whites seem too bright in the shots in the corridors.

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 (Edited)

Watch it in motion, I bet them white walls blend right into the lights, it's to much.

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Oh, I agree.  I meant to imply that they were a bit too bright.  I'll edit my post for clarity.

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Thanks for all the feedback! :D

I do wish everyone would make up their minds you ask for more contrast and I give you more contrast and then you complain the hallways are too bright geeze! :P

Only kidding, I have fixed the overly bright hallways, and I have pulled back on the saturation ever so slightly. R2D2 having a greenish/yellowish glow around his blue stripes seems to be an unintended side effect of a correction I have in place for the Death Star walls. As this is an overall correction rather than a scene by scene correction there is not a lot I can do about it.

Original Trilogy in Replica Technicolor Project
Star Wars PAL LaserDisc Project

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I think you can never get a satisfying result for the whole film with one settings. It needs color correction scene by scene. Tatooine shots look okay there, but the others have a weird green hue on whites, like on Leia's dress. After those Technicolor photos everything seems to be more green. :P Be careful that you won't overdo it.

And in the time of greatest despair, there shall come a savior, and he shall be known as the Son of the Suns.

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The greenish hues seem to be on the negative. The Technicolor prints and theatrical bootlegs all have green coloration in the white levels for the Blockade Runner scene.

Personally, I thought those screens looked pretty fantastic. I can't wait to see this. :)

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LexX said:

I think you can never get a satisfying result for the whole film with one settings. It needs color correction scene by scene.
I agree the ideal way to go would be colour correcting scene by scene, I've said this all along but at the same time I have my reasons for not doing it this way. :)

For those of you wondering, although I am trying to match the Technicolor photos fairly closely, I am not trying to perfectly match them for 2 key reasons:

1. The photos themselves are imperfect, the exposure varies from photo to photo, and there is a question over the effect the white balace of the camera has on the hue of the colours.

2. The Technicolor Imbibition process does not produce 1:1 copies, because of the variations in the dyes used in the film stock. Therefore no two Technicolor IB prints are perfectly identical even when they are brand new.

I would highly recommend anyone who hasn't already checked out Zombie84's terrific page on the Technicolor IB showing at the Senator Theatre does so as it is highly informative!

I rendered out the second VTS to lossless AVI overnight so thats two down five to go. :D

Original Trilogy in Replica Technicolor Project
Star Wars PAL LaserDisc Project

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LeeThorogood said:

 

I agree the ideal way to go would be colour correcting scene by scene, I've said this all along but at the same time I have my reasons for not doing it this way. :)

 

Lee, could you use a best fit setting for the film and tweak just the scenes where this setting results in undesired side effects e.g. the green on Artoo's stripes?  This way you could avoid having to correct the whole film scene-by-scene but still solve problems a best fit setting might cause.  Just a thought!

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 (Edited)


Chewtobacca said:

LeeThorogood said: 
I agree the ideal way to go would be colour correcting scene by scene, I've said this all along but at the same time I have my reasons for not doing it this way. :)

Lee, could you use a best fit setting for the film and tweak just the scenes where this setting results in undesired side effects e.g. the green on Artoo's stripes?  This way you could avoid having to correct the whole film scene-by-scene but still solve problems a best fit setting might cause.  Just a thought!
The problem is where would you draw the line? How long would it be before correcting the unwanted side effects would lead to a scene by scene correction? I appreciate the suggestion, but in this case I'm going to pass on it. ;)

Original Trilogy in Replica Technicolor Project
Star Wars PAL LaserDisc Project

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That is why you need to back off your extreme settings and just settle with it, or keep those settings and watch some very badly colored scenes, I have backed my settings off because of this, right now where you are at, some of that is going to look like crap on TV, well at least to me, some seem to like the extreme.